We are big proponent of using the correct value on any job you do on your car. The engineers are most likely smarter than you, and have run every component of the car through stress analysis. They assign torque values depending on the location, the component, the bolt class and more. That being said, sometimes torque values are not called out, so how do you know what to torque the fastener to? Many people would just say "guten tight," but the industry does have generic torque values for fasteners that can be followed when no value is called out.
We have compiled a list of the most common fastener sizes and given you the generic torque values in case of emergency. Make sure to bookmark this article!
HOW TO TORQUE A FASTENER:
- Make sure your torque wrench is calibrated. This is very important, because if it is not, then you will get false readings, and could possibly under or over torque your fastener. If you ever drop a torque wrench, please get it recalibrated before using it again.
- Be sure the bolt and nut threads are clean. If dirt or gunk is present on the threads, it can cause more resistance when tightening the fastener, giving you a false torque reading.
- Run the nut down as close as you can to the washer or joint surface. If there is friction on the nut while you are running it down the fastener, make sure you measure this resistance and add it to your final torque value. This is called run-down torque (torque to overcome the friction of the nut).
- Whenever possible, apply the torque to the nut and not the bolt. This will reduce the rotation of the bolt in the hole which could cause wear.
- Apply a smooth, even pull with the wrench. If jerking of the wrench occurs, you can get a false torque reading. If this happens, back off the nut and retorque.
