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Why Having A Good Battery Charger and Maintainer Is Important

Justin Schaub — Tue, 13 May 2025 15:53:00 -0400

When it comes to keeping your vehicle running smoothly, having a reliable car battery charger and maintainer is key. These devices play a vital role in ensuring your battery stays charged and healthy, especially if your vehicle sits unused for a while. Understanding the differences between chargers and maintainers can save you from unexpected breakdowns and extend the life of your battery. Let's dive into why investing in these tools is a smart move for any vehicle owner.

Key Takeaways

A car battery charger quickly restores power to dead batteries, while a maintainer keeps batteries topped off over time.
Using the wrong device can lead to overcharging or insufficient charging, risking battery health.
Battery maintainers are great for vehicles in storage, preventing self-discharge and ensuring reliable starts.
Smart technology in maintainers can prevent overcharging and monitor battery health automatically.
Investing in a battery maintainer can save you money in the long run by extending battery life and reducing replacement costs. (We recommend the CTEK MXS 5.0)

Understanding Battery Chargers and Maintainers

Purpose of Battery Chargers

Battery chargers are designed to quickly restore power to a dead or significantly drained battery. They deliver a higher current to rapidly replenish the battery's charge. Think of them as the emergency room doctors for your car battery, getting you back on the road ASAP. They come in various sizes, with charge rates that can range from a few amps to much higher, depending on the battery size and type.

Purpose of Battery Maintainers

Battery maintainers, on the other hand, are all about long-term care. They're designed to keep a battery at its optimal charge level when the vehicle isn't in regular use. They deliver a low, steady current – often called a "trickle charge" – to offset the natural self-discharge that occurs in batteries over time. A ctek charger is a good example of a quality maintainer.

Battery maintainers are ideal for vehicles in storage, seasonal vehicles, or anything that sits unused for extended periods. They prevent sulfation, a buildup of lead sulfate crystals on the battery plates, which can reduce battery capacity and lifespan.

Choosing the Right Device

Selecting between a charger and a maintainer depends entirely on your needs. If your battery is dead, you need a charger. If you want to keep a healthy battery topped off during storage, a maintainer is the way to go. Using the wrong device can actually damage your battery. A charger used constantly can overcharge and ruin a battery, while a maintainer won't provide enough juice to revive a dead one. Consider these points:

Assess your needs: Is it a quick fix or long-term maintenance?
Check the voltage compatibility: Ensure the device matches your battery's voltage (usually 12V for cars).
Look for automatic shut-off features: This prevents overcharging, especially with chargers.
Consider smart features: Some maintainers have advanced functions like desulfation modes.

Differences Between Battery Chargers and Maintainers

Charge Rates and Usage

Battery chargers and maintainers differ significantly in how they deliver power. Battery chargers are designed to rapidly replenish a battery's charge, often using higher amperage to do so. Think of them as giving your battery a quick energy boost. Battery maintainers, on the other hand, use a much lower amperage to keep a battery at its optimal charge level over an extended period. It's more like a slow, steady drip to keep the battery topped off. For example, a charger might use 10 amps or more, while a maintainer usually operates at 2 amps or less. This difference in charge rate dictates their ideal use cases.

Overcharging Risks

One of the biggest differences between chargers and maintainers is how they handle the risk of overcharging. Battery chargers, especially older models, can potentially overcharge a battery if left connected for too long after the battery is full. This can damage the battery and shorten its lifespan. Battery maintainers, however, are designed to prevent overcharging. They use smart technology to monitor the battery's voltage and automatically adjust the charge rate or even shut off completely once the battery is fully charged. This makes them much safer for long-term connection.

Optimal Conditions for Each

Choosing between a charger and a maintainer really depends on the situation. If you have a dead or severely depleted battery, a charger is the way to go. It'll give you that quick recharge you need to get back on the road. However, if you're storing a vehicle for an extended period, or if you want to keep a battery in top condition, a maintainer is the better choice. It'll prevent self-discharge and keep the battery ready to go when you need it.

Using a charger when a maintainer is needed can overcharge and damage your battery, while using a maintainer in situations requiring a charger won’t provide the necessary recharge.

Benefits of Using a Car Battery Charger

Quick Recharge for Dead Batteries

The most obvious benefit of a car battery charger is its ability to quickly revive a dead battery. I mean, who hasn't been there? You're running late, jump in the car, turn the key... and nothing. A charger can get you back on the road much faster than waiting for a jump start or a tow. It's a real lifesaver in those situations. Plus, it's way more convenient than messing around with jumper cables, especially in bad weather.

Emergency Situations

Car battery chargers are super handy in emergencies. Imagine you're stranded somewhere with a dead battery. Having a portable charger can be a game-changer. It gives you the power to recharge your battery and get going without relying on others. It's a great tool to have in your emergency car kit, just in case.

Versatility Across Battery Types

Modern car battery chargers aren't just for one type of battery. Many can handle different types, like lead-acid, AGM, and gel batteries. This versatility means you can use the same charger for multiple vehicles or even other equipment, like motorcycles or lawnmowers. Just make sure to check the charger's specifications to ensure it's compatible with your battery type. It's all about having the right tool for the job.

A good car battery charger is more than just a convenience; it's a tool that can save you time, money, and a whole lot of frustration. Whether you're dealing with a dead battery or just want to top off the charge, a charger is a worthwhile investment for any car owner.

Advantages of Battery Maintainers

Long-Term Battery Health

Battery maintainers are great for keeping your battery in good shape over the long haul. They prevent the kind of deep discharge that can shorten a battery's life. By keeping the battery topped off, you avoid the sulfation process that happens when a battery sits unused for too long. This means your battery is more likely to last as long as it's supposed to, saving you money in the long run. It's a simple way to extend the lifespan of your battery.

Preventing Self-Discharge

Batteries naturally lose charge over time, even when they're not connected to anything. This is called self-discharge, and it's a real problem if you're storing a vehicle or piece of equipment for an extended period. A battery maintainer counteracts this by providing a small, steady charge that keeps the battery at its optimal level. This ensures that when you're ready to use the battery, it's fully charged and ready to go. It's way better than finding a dead battery when you need it most.

Smart Technology Features

Many modern battery maintainers come with smart technology that makes them super easy to use. They can automatically detect when the battery is fully charged and then switch to a maintenance mode, preventing overcharging. Some even have features like desulfation, which can help restore older batteries. Plus, they're designed to be left connected for long periods without any risk of damage. It's basically a set-it-and-forget-it solution for keeping your batteries in top condition.

Using a battery maintainer is like giving your battery a constant drip of energy, just enough to keep it healthy without overdoing it. It's a simple way to avoid the frustration of a dead battery and extend its overall life.

When to Use a Battery Maintainer

During Vehicle Storage

If you're putting your car, motorcycle, boat, or RV away for the winter, or any extended period, a battery maintainer is your best friend. It keeps the battery topped off, preventing the dreaded dead battery surprise when you're ready to roll again. Batteries naturally lose charge over time, and storage accelerates this process. A maintainer combats this, ensuring your battery is ready to go when you are.

For Seasonal Vehicles

Got a classic car you only drive in the summer? Or maybe a snowmobile that hibernates during the warmer months? These seasonal vehicles are prime candidates for battery maintainers.

Think of it this way:

No more jump-starts when the season rolls around.
Extended battery health.
Ready to go on day one.

Preventing Parasitic Drain

Even when your car is off, some systems still draw power. This is called parasitic drain. Things like your car's alarm, clock, and computer memory all sip electricity, slowly draining the battery. A battery maintainer offsets this drain, keeping your battery at its optimal charge level. It's like a tiny, tireless helper ensuring your battery doesn't get run down by these sneaky power consumers.

Using a battery maintainer is a simple way to avoid the frustration of a dead battery. It's a small investment that can save you time, money, and hassle in the long run. Plus, it's good for the environment by extending the life of your battery, reducing the need for replacements.

Safety Considerations for Battery Chargers

It's easy to overlook safety when you're just trying to get your car started, but using a battery charger safely is super important. You don't want to end up with a damaged battery, or worse, an injury. Here's what you need to keep in mind.

Avoiding Overcharging

Overcharging is a big no-no. It can seriously damage your battery and even create a fire hazard. Most modern chargers have automatic shut-off features to prevent this, but it's still a good idea to keep an eye on things. If you're using an older charger, make sure you know how long it should take to charge your battery and don't leave it plugged in longer than necessary.

Proper Connection Techniques

Getting the connections right is key. Always connect the positive (red) clamp to the positive terminal first, and then the negative (black) clamp to the negative terminal. Make sure the connections are secure. If you connect them backwards, you could damage the charger, the battery, or both. And always disconnect the charger in the reverse order: negative first, then positive.

Monitoring Battery Health

While your battery is charging, it's a good idea to check in on it every now and then. Look for any signs of swelling, leaking, or excessive heat. If you notice anything unusual, disconnect the charger immediately. A healthy battery shouldn't get too hot to touch during charging. Also, pay attention to how quickly the battery is charging. If it seems to be taking much longer than usual, there might be an issue with the battery itself.

It's also a good idea to check in on the battery maintainer from time to time. While it shouldn’t harm your batteries, electronic malfunction, power outages, or other unusual events could damage your battery. Simply checking in on your battery maintainer from time to time can save you hassle in the long run.

Here's a quick checklist to keep in mind:

Always read the charger's instructions before use.
Ensure proper ventilation while charging.
Never smoke or use open flames near a charging battery.

Is It Worth Investing in a Battery Maintainer?

So, you're wondering if grabbing a battery maintainer is a smart move? Let's break it down. It really boils down to how you use your vehicles and batteries. If you're the type to let your car sit for weeks, or you've got a classic ride that only comes out for summer cruises, then yeah, it's probably a good idea. But if you're driving regularly, maybe not so much.

Cost-Effectiveness

Think of it this way: replacing a dead battery is way more expensive than buying a maintainer. A battery maintainer is much more cost-effective than using an entire charging system to top off your battery. Plus, you avoid the hassle of jump-starting or calling for a tow. It's a small investment that can save you from bigger expenses down the road.

Longevity of Battery Life

Batteries don't like sitting around doing nothing. They slowly lose their charge, and that can damage them over time. A maintainer keeps your battery topped off, preventing that sulfation buildup that kills batteries. This can significantly extend the life of your battery, meaning you won't have to replace it as often. It's like giving your battery a constant drip of life-sustaining energy.

Peace of Mind for Vehicle Owners

There's something to be said for the peace of mind that comes with knowing your vehicle will start when you need it to. No more worrying about whether your battery is dead after a period of inactivity. A battery maintainer provides that assurance, making it a worthwhile investment for many vehicle owners.

Here's a quick list of scenarios where a maintainer really shines:

Seasonal vehicles (like convertibles or motorcycles)
Vehicles stored for the winter
Cars with parasitic drain (those pesky electrical systems that keep drawing power even when the car is off)
Infrequent drivers

If any of those sound like you, then a battery maintainer is definitely worth considering.

Thinking about whether to buy a battery maintainer? It can be a smart choice if you want to keep your battery in good shape and avoid dead batteries. These devices help charge your battery slowly and safely, which can save you money in the long run. If you want to learn more about how a battery maintainer can benefit you, check out our website for more details!

Wrapping It Up

In the end, having a good battery charger and maintainer is a smart move for any vehicle owner. It’s all about keeping your battery in top shape, whether you’re driving it daily or letting it sit for a while. A charger gets you back on the road fast, while a maintainer keeps things steady when your vehicle is parked. By using the right tool for the job, you can avoid headaches down the line, like a dead battery when you need your car the most. So, if you want to save time and money, investing in a quality charger and maintainer is definitely worth it.

Purchase your CTEK battery maintainer and charger from Race German today and keep your battery in top condition!

https://racegerman.com/products/ctek-mxs5-0-smart-charger

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main function of a battery charger?

The main function of a battery charger is to quickly recharge a dead or low battery.

When should I use a battery maintainer instead of a charger?

Use a battery maintainer when you want to keep a battery charged over a long time, like when your vehicle is stored.

Can I keep a battery maintainer plugged in for a long time?

Yes, you can leave a battery maintainer connected for a long time, as it will automatically keep the battery charged.

Do battery chargers and maintainers work with all battery types?

They can work with many battery types, but it's important to choose one that matches your battery.

What are the benefits of using a battery maintainer?

A battery maintainer helps keep your battery healthy, prevents it from losing charge, and often has smart features.

Is it safe to leave a battery maintainer on all the time?

Yes, battery maintainers are designed for long-term use and can be left on without harming the battery.

How to Install BMW E36 Side Skirts

Justin Schaub — Wed, 14 May 2025 07:51:00 -0400

Adding side skirts to your E36 is a great way to improve the aesthetics of the vehicle. The E36 came with solid rockers and BMW offered slip over side skirts in a couple different variations. The most common are sport or lux side skirts which came on most 328i’s and M3 luxury package models. The more sought after “twist” side skirts came on sport package E36 M3s or they were special ordered. Either one you choose, they attach the same way.

In the past, BMW had installation tools that made this job a breeze, but since then the paper rulers are no longer available. Because of this, we receive many questions on how to install the side skirts without the specific measurements, what tools are needed, and how difficult is the process. Luckily, our E36 Touring project was in need of some side skirts, so we decided to document the process and take the specific measurements for you. This task is not very hard, but will require some basic hand tools, the ability to use a tape measure, and some patience, so let’s jump into it

Tools Needed:

Tape measure
Sharpie marker
Small ruler (6” scale”)
Hole punch
Drill
10mm or 23/64 drill bit (green grommets)
6mm or 1/4” drill bit (black rivets)
Deburr tool
Primer spray paint
Small hammer

In addition the above tools, you will need the E36 side skirt hardware kit that we sell. This includes:

24 white clips
24 green grommets
14 big push rivets
4 small push rivets

You can find the link to the hardware kit at the bottom of this blog.

Let’s get started.

The E36 side skirts will fit all sedans, coupes, convertibles, tourings and even the ti.

1. Measuring for the mounting clips

If you turn the side skirt over you will see a rib and two vertical hash marks exactly where the white clip goes into.

You can measure these from the front of the side skirt all the way down for yourself, but we have recorded the measurements for you. These are the center points you will need to drill into the car to attach the white clip. (These measurements are in inches)

1 5/8
7 3/8
10 7/8
18 1/2
24 1/8
29 3/4
35 1/2
41
51 1/2
61 7/8
67 3/8
75 1/2

Now that we know where the holes are lengthwise we need to know how far down to drill vertically. The E36 has a body line between the door and where the rocker panel starts (see picture). From the bottom of this line, take your 6” scale and mark exactly a half inch (0.5”) down at each of the above locations . Once done, we are ready to drill.

Measure 1/2" down from this body line

2. Drilling holes for the clips.

Now that we have marked all 12 locations on each side it is time to start drilling. This can be the scariest part, as you are physically making holes in your car, but don’t worry, it is not the bad. Take a center hole punch at each of the locations you made and make a mark to make it easier for the drill bit to start and not slide around.

Use center punch to make sure the drill bit does not walk

This is important as you do not want be off on the these locations or the side skirt will not mount correctly. After you center punch each location, it is best to step drill these holes. The final hole size will be 10mm or 23/64. Choose a drill bit smaller than this and drill all of the locations.

Use a smaller drill bit first and step up to final size

Once complete, use the final drill bit size and drill the holes again. After you drilled to the final size, take a deburr tool to all the holes to remove any sharp edges. Finally you will want to use a primer spray paint to spray the holes (bare metal) so they do not rust.

Final size of hole

Use deburr tool to remove any sharp edges

Use primer or rust protector paint to paint raw metal to prevent rust

Painted raw metal of hole

3. Installing green grommets and white clips

After the paint is dry, it is ready to install the included green grommets in the kit. Press the green grommet into the holes. They should be a little snug, so lightly tap them flush with a hammer. After this, we can start installing the white clips. If you look at the clip, there is a curve in the middle. Orient the clip so it looks like it has a frown face (see picture).

Correct orientation of the white clip

Push the white clip into the green grommet until snaps. Sometimes this can take some force. Install all the clips. The top of the clip should sit right below that body line we talked about earlier (see picture).

Installation of white E36 side skirt clips

4. Installing the side skirt

Now comes the time we have all been waiting for. Place the side skirt against the car and work from the front to the back. It may be helpful to have two people to hold up the rear as you snap it in place. Start with the front clip and make sure inner rib of the side skirt goes into the top part of the white clip. You may have to push firmly, but try not to slap the side skirt with your fist. If the white clip is twisted or not perfectly lined up, you can easily break these white clips. They are not as robust as you think. Luckily they are easily replaceable if you do break one. Keep clipping the side skirt in all the way down until you get to the end. Once done, pat yourself on the back, take a break and have a cold one. The hardest part is over.

5. Drilling for the push rivets

This is by far the easiest part of the process, because we know the exact locations of the expandable plastic rivets as there are already holes in the side skirt. Each side will have 7 big push rivets on the bottom, and 2 small push rivets on the back vertical portion near the rear wheel. Push the side skirt flush against the car and use a 6mm or 1/4” drill bit and drill all 9 holes. Deburr and paint as before to prevent any rust.

Drilling for the bottom rivets

6. Installing the push rivets

Once the holes are drilled simply install all 7 of the big push rivets on the bottom and the 2 small ones on the back ends.

Installing the plastic push rivets

Now stand back and look at your accomplishment! See, we told you it wasn’t that bad. You are completely done.

If you need to purchase the E36 side skirt hardware kit, please check out the link below.

https://racegerman.com/products/e36-side-skirt-hardware-kit

Thank you!

If you would like to purchase the E36 Side Skirt Hardware kit, click the link below:

E36 Side Skirt Hardware Kit

How to Read BMW Electrical Diagram Schematics: A Beginners Guide

Justin Schaub — Wed, 14 May 2025 13:19:00 -0400

Introduction

Learning the electrical system on your BMW is crucial to becoming a good mechanic. Reading the schematics will help you diagnose, troubleshoot, and modify electrical issues, which let’s face it, will inevitably happen. The BMW electrical schematics divide the entire vehicle electrical system into individual circuits. Interacting electrical components are also shown on one common schematic.
Electrical diagrams are visual representations of electrical circuits or systems. They use standardized symbols to show components like wires, switches, batteries, resistors, and connections. These diagrams help electricians, engineers, and technicians understand how electricity flows through a system, how parts are connected, and how to troubleshoot or build the circuit correctly.

Important: It is important to know that the wires and components are not drawn to scale. As an example, a lead with a length over 3 feet can be shown as a lead only measuring an inch.

Being able to read electrical diagrams is crucial for several reasons:

Repairs: Diagrams help identify failed components and locate issues, saving time and reducing any guesswork.
Modifications: When adding or modifying parts of an electrical system, diagrams show how existing components are connected, ensuring safe and proper install.
Troubleshooting: Diagrams provide a map of the circuit, allowing mechanics to
trace electrical paths and diagnose problems.
Safety: Understanding how circuits are wired helps prevent accidents, short circuits, or damage to the wiring system.

Types of Electrical Diagrams

Schematic Diagram – shows the function and logic of the electrical circuit.
Wiring Diagram – shows actual connections and physical layout.
Pictorial Diagram – shows components as pictures. (Not seen much on BMWs)

Schematic Electrical Symbols

BMW uses specific symbols on their diagrams to easily show the mechanic important information about the circuit. Here are some of the symbols used. It is very important to become familar with these symbols or reference this key while troubleshooting.

Understanding Lines and Connections

Note: Switches and relays are shown in the reset position
A dashed line signifies that the component is illustrated only in part
A solid line signifies that the component is illustrated in full
A dashed lines between 2 pins in a connector indicates that both pins belong to that connector.

Reading an Electrical Diagram Step By Step

Note: This may differ depending on what you want to acomplish. These are the generics steps when tracing a circuit.

Start with the power source, like the 12v battery.
Follow the flow of the currect to the component you are looking for.
Look for relays, switches, fuses etc that could be stopping or starting the flow of current.
Note that there may be multiple sources of power depending on the circuit.
The circuit may not always be on one page, and be contained in multiple pages of the schematics.
The numbers next to the connectors indicate the pin the wire is associated with.
Two letters next to the wires indicate the color of the wire. (GN-GREEN, VI-VIOLOT)

Tips

Break the schematics into sections
Use a highlighter to trace the circuit to make it more cleaer where the wires are going.
Use a multimeter to text the current, voltage, or continuity, to make sure a wire is not broken along the circuit.

Conclusion

Reading electrical wiring schematics is a crucial skill and can be invaluable to diagnosing and troubling a cars electrical system. Efficient troubleshooting can save you time, and money. Remember this is a skill that has to be learned, and practice makes perfect.

BONUS

Most BMW wiring diagrams can actually be downloaded for FREE, thats right free! This website has many of the early models, so we encourage you to check them out, download and save for when you are in dire needs of some electrical work.

Free BMW Wiring Diagrams

DIY: Wire Your CEL on OBD1 E30 Swaps

Justin Schaub — Wed, 14 May 2025 16:03:00 -0400

I have written many blogs about 24v swapping our E30s, and for good reason. This is a very popular swap, and a great marriage of two different generations to give "God's Chariot" a little extra oomf.

This blog is going to be about getting your CEL (check engine light) to work on OBD1 swapped E30s. Keep in mind, if you can, I would encourage you to go OBD2, but I understand the simplicity and money savings of swapping in an OBD1 engine.

With OBD1, we are unable to hook up a computer scanner to check codes, but that shouldn't stop you from seeing what is wrong with your engine. The OBD1 BMWs, have a "stomp test" function that can be performed to read your check engine lights.

But before we can even perform the stop test, we have to let the gauge cluster know if there is a problem. To do this we have to run one wire from the DME to the C101 connector to let the gauge cluster light know if there is an issue. Even though I encourage everyone to get comfortable with automotive wiring, I know it is not for everyone, so here it is. If you would like to download free BMW wiring diagrams, visit our other blog:

Download Free BMW Wiring Diagrams

As stated above this will only work for OBD1 swapped E30s using a Bosch 413 or Bosch 506 DME.

The gauge cluster light gets its signal from the DME at pin number 8 on the E36 DME.

You will need to run a splice or tap from this wire to the E30 side. Lets take a look at the E36 DME connector to show you were pin 8 is:

After you figured out the E36 side of things, you will need to fish that wire through to the C101 connector of your E30. Keep in mind this is only for later model E30s with the round C101 connector, not the square. The C101 connector is located besides the fuse box in the engine bay on the firewall.

From here you will have to splice into pin number 12. Here is a layout of the C101 connector

After all this is accomplished, the CEL in your gauge cluster should illuminate if you have an engine fault code. To check and clear the code you will need to perform a stomp test.

BONUS

On a M50 swap in my 1986 325es and it's a little different than described above. The '86 still has the round C101, but no wire in it for the CEL (since they didn't actually have a functioning CEL from the factory). However, behind the instrument cluster the bulb for the CEL is already installed and has two male spade terminals. So, I cut the Grey wire coming from Pin #8 out of the main DME plug (X6000) a few inches past the connector inside the glovebox and ran it straight to one terminal on the CEL bulb behind the cluster, and the other terminal gets wired to switched 12v power. In this case, tap into the cruise control circuit for switched power in the footwell under the dash if your car has the cruise control deleted in the past and the connector is floating around unplugged. If you do not have this, there are other 12v switched power supplies.

Bolt Grades: The Right Bolt for The Job

Justin Schaub — Thu, 15 May 2025 09:19:00 -0400

Introduction

Not every bolt is created equal. As they say, the right bolt for the right job. Well, maybe they don’t say that, but it is true in this scenario. If you have ever worked on cars, you probably noticed that the hardware you use has numbers on the end, but you may not know exactly what they mean. These numbers indicate the grade of the bolt, and depending on which grade, and where they are being installed on the car can make a huge difference.

In the automotive world, the three most common grades you will see are 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9, but what does this all mean?

In this article, we will cover a few different topics.

Mechanical Properties
Pros & Cons
Failure Characteristics
Automotive Applications
Visual Comparison

Mechanical Properties: Understanding Grades by Strength

Each of these 3 grades have a very different tensile strength.

Grade 8.8: ~800 MPa tensile strength, 640 MPa yield. Standard structural bolts, ductile but lower strength.
Grade 10.9: ~1,040 MPa tensile, 940 MPa yield. Higher strength, common in critical automotive parts.
Grade 12.9: ~1,220 MPa tensile, 1,100 MPa yield. Very high strength, less ductile, used where maximum clamping force is required.

How the grades are derived is quite simple. The first number refers to the tensile strength. For example, with a grade 8.8 bolt, you would multiply 8 x 100, to give you a nominal tensile strength (MPa), of 800. The second number is the percent of yield to tensile. In the same example, 8 again, you would multiply 8 x 10%, to receive .8. You then multiply the .8 x 800 (MPa), to receive a yield of 640.

Yield – This refers to the maximum stress that a bolt can withstand without being permanently deformed (stretched).

MPa – Stands for megapascals, which is a unit of pressure or stress. This is the amount of force per unit the bolt can handle.

Pros and Cons

There are many different pros and cons to using each grade of bolt, and usually the manufacturer or BMW, in our case, chooses the correct bolt for the correct application. BMW engineers are very smart, and run models for stress testing on all their components. They choose the appropriate bolt where needed.

Bolt Grade	Pros	Cons
8.8	Low cost, High ductility, easy to work with.	Lower strength, not suitable for high load areas
10.9	High Tensile Strength, good balance of strength and flexibility	More expensive, may require heat treat
12.9	Maximum strength, small size possible for same load	Brittle under shock, expensive, harder to machine

Failure Characteristics

8.8 – These bolts tend to stretch and deform before breaking. They have very good energy absorption.

10.9 - More resistant to deforming, but can snap under extreme shock

12.9 – These bolts are the hardest of the three to shear, but can fail more suddenly.

Note: Always use the recommended torque specification from the manufacturer to prevent premature failure or stretching.

Automotive Applications

As you can see, all three of these grades have unique characteristics and should be used for very specific applications. You might be asking, if 12.9 is the best, why don’t we use it in all applications. One of the biggest reasons is cost. 12.9 bolts are usually heat treated, which is a more expensive process. You would not want to use 12.9 bolts in applications that do not require much clamping force, like interior pieces.

8.8. – These bolts are used mostly in interior parts, plastic brackets, lights, or other components on the car that are not structural.

10.9 – These bolts are the middle of the ground and are typically found in engine mounts, suspension arms, or drivetrain brackets.

12.9 – The highest grade, and can be used in brake systems, turbo/superchargers, head bolts, or other engine internals.

Conclusion

Using the right grade bolt for the correct application is vital in maintaining your car. If you need to replace a bolt, make sure you choose the correct grade that the fancy BMW engineers recommend. Going to your local hardware store and picking out the cheapest bolt for your suspension, may end up in a catastrophic failure. After replacing the bolt, make sure you look up the torque value in the BMW maintenance manual. Bentley manuals are a great resource, or you can pick up one of your Easy to read Torque Guide booklets found on our website.

OEM Style BMW Shift Boot Replacements - Plug and Play

Justin Schaub — Tue, 20 May 2025 15:17:00 -0400

If your older BMW is anything like ours, the shift boot has probably seen better days. Over the years, in the hot sun, the leather dries out and starts to shrink. This causes cracking and the leather ends up pulling away from the plastic boot ring.

Manual shift boots are a very simple idea but serve both functional and aesthetic purposes.

Functional:

Protects the shifter mechanism and components – The boot covers the hole where the gear shifter passes through the transmission tunnel. This prevents dirt, dust, and moisture from entering the linkage components which can cause binding or premature failure.
Insulates noise and vibration – The boot will help reduce road noise, transmission spinning noise and vibrations from entering the cabin.
Seals against air and heat – The transmission area of your car gets very hot. Not only is the transmission constantly spinning, but your exhaust runs right beside it. The shift boot will prevent the hot air from getting into the cabin.

Aesthetic:

Cleans up your interior – Without the shift boot, your interior would have a giant hole in the middle of the center console. The boot gives the shifter area a finished look. Today there are many choices for shift boot materials depending on your style, but the most common OEM styles are leather or a suede/alcantara material.

Unfortuately, BMW no longer makes the shift boots for our older generation cars, so we took it upon ourself to create the best OEM style replicas we could. We found clean examples of these shift boots, cut apart the leather and took exact measurements of the OEM leather pieces. We then traced these pieces onto brand new leather and sewed them together. To make your life even easier, we had exact replica of the OEM boot ring molded out of ABS plastic and finished the assembly all in house.

What you get is a completely plug and play shift boot for your application. After our leather ones became one of our best selling products, we adding an alcantara version for each model as well.

Our shift boots are offered for the following BMW chassis: E30, E36 (TI/Z3 not available), E46, E39, and E9x (non M models only).

Pick up yours today and bring your interior back to the glory days.

Shop Now

Race German OEM Style Shift Boots (Leather)

Race German OEM Style Shift Boots (Alcantara)

E36 STW Spoiler: Which Bumper to Use?

Justin Schaub — Thu, 22 May 2025 12:45:00 -0400

Introduction

This journey all started when I decided to make a STW E36 racing replica car years ago. I purchased this 1998 328i about 6 years ago for $1400 (back when they were cheap). At that time I had no intention of embarking on this journey, and just drove the car as a cheap daily driver. About 4 years later, the car started to overheat due to a bad head gasket and I parked the car for another 2 years. Fast forward to 2025, we fixed the head gasket, added coilovers, manual swapped the car, and started looking for the right body parts to accomplish this conversion.

Super Tourenwagen Cup History (STW)

If you aren’t familiar, STW was racing class in the 90s, and in my opinion was one of the coolest racing series BMW was ever involved in. The Super Tourenwagen Cup (STW) was a German touring car racing series that ran from 1994 to 1999, created as a successor to the DTM after its shift toward more expensive Class 1 rules. STW featured Super Touring regulations, which emphasized production-based, 2.0-liter sedans. Manufacturers like BMW, Audi, Opel, and Peugeot competed aggressively, often fielding factory-backed teams. The series was known for close racing, diverse entries, and technical equivalence, making it a fan favorite during the 1990s before eventually being phased out as DTM returned in 2000.

Which Bumper to Get?

Now finding original parts on these cars is almost impossible, so luckily a company in the USA called DTM Fiberwerkz, remanufactures some of these which made this easier. We went ahead and purchased the STW front spoiler lip and the STW rear wing.

This blog is not about the entire build, but since there is not a lot of information out there on the front spoiler, and which bumper to use, I thought I would share the knowledge I learned in case you are interested in doing this conversion as well.

Through our research, we found out that BMW made at least 4 different bumpers for the E36 chassis, and I believe a fifth one that was special ordered through a catalog as part of their aero kit. We will focus on the original 4, because the STW cars only used one specific part number.

Throughout the years BMW changed the styling of the front bumper and offered an early model bumper that came on the 318/325, a late model 318/325 bumper, and of course the M3 front bumper. Since the STW cars were early model 4 cylinders, I originally purchased an early model 318 bumper (BMW PN 51118132417). To make the spoiler fit you have to cut the bumper almost completely in half to mount. With no instructions anywhere, we went ahead and did this, and the STW spoiler fit fairly well. We posted a picture on the internet, and received some comments from our UK friends that, this was not only the wrong bumper, but we cut it in the wrong spot. Kind of puzzled, we went back and forth with them to get all the information we could. They sent us close up pictures of real STW cars from the 90s and other replicas they have built over seas.

From our findings, it turns out there is a Euro only version of the bumper (BMW PN 51118122312). Looking at the “Euro” and “USA” version, it is very hard to tell the differences, but they are there. Since we wanted to make this car as close as possible to the real ones, we went ahead and found a Euro bumper, and shipped it to the shop. (Keep in mind, you can install the STW spoiler on any of the 3 non M3 bumpers, but it won’t be exactly like the original cars).

The main difference between the “Euro” and “USA” style is a body line that runs across the entire length of the bumper, which sits a little above the fog light cut outs. The USA version has the body lower on the bumper and cuts through the fog light cut outs. See the pictures below.

I hope this helps anyone that is trying to achieve the same look. We will create a blog later that shows how to install the spoiler correctly.

What You Need To Know About Storing Open Brake Fluid Containers

Justin Schaub — Wed, 28 May 2025 11:16:00 -0400

1. Introduction

Brief explanation of what brake fluid is and its role in vehicle safety.

Brake fluid is one of the most important fluids in your car. It’s a hydraulic fluid that is used to transfer force from your brake pedal to the calipers on each wheel. It is important that the fluid remains in optimal condition to ensure safety of your braking system. The drawback of brake fluid is, it’s highly sensitive to contamination and moisture.

2. Understanding Brake Fluid Composition

Hygroscopic Nature: Most brake fluids (e.g., DOT 3, DOT 4) are hygroscopic, meaning they attract and absorb moisture from the air. This causes the fluid to degrade over time, even if it looks clean. When moisture is introduced into the brake fluid, you will feel spongey brakes. Brake fluid is designed to withstand high temperatures, but when it absorbs water from the air, the boiling point drops dramatically. During heavy braking—such as towing, or spirited driving—the brake system heats up. If the fluid reaches its now-lowered boiling point, the water in the fluid vaporizes into steam.

Types of Brake Fluid:Different brake fluids have different chemical properties. For example, DOT 3 and DOT 4 absorb water, while DOT 5 is silicone-based and doesn't, but it has its own storage concerns. You also need to follow the manufacturers recommendations for which fluid to use. Not all vehicles can use DOT 5.
How Air Exposure Affects its Chemical Makeup:Once a container is opened, exposure to air begins the process of degradation. The fluid’s boiling point lowers as it absorbs moisture, making it less effective under high-heat braking.

3. Pros of Keeping an Open Container (Short-Term Use Only)

Convenient for Immediate Maintenance Tasks
If you're working on your brake system and need to bleed the brakes or top off fluid over the course of a few hours or days, having an open container available can save time and effort. Any length of time over a few days, will result in the degradation, and should be discarded.
Reduces Waste
For someone doing minor repairs or fluid checks across multiple vehicles in a short window, keeping a recently opened container can prevent the unnecessary waste of buying and discarding multiple bottles.
Brake Fluid Can be Costly
Brake fluid isn't expensive, but if you're performing maintenance tasks frequently over a few days, keeping the same container open may save money on repeated purchases.

4. Cons of Keeping an Open Container

Moisture Absorption and Degradation
Once opened, brake fluid begins absorbing moisture from the air. Even a small amount of water drastically lowers its boiling point, increasing the risk of brake fade or failure under high heat. Moisture also contributes to corrosion within the brake lines and components.
Contamination Risk
An open bottle is susceptible to dust, dirt, and particles entering the fluid. Contaminants can clog brake system components or interfere with the hydraulic properties of the fluid, compromising your braking ability.
Shelf Life is Severely Shortened
While sealed brake fluid can last for years, once opened it begins to degrade rapidly. In many cases, it's only considered safe to use for a few days to a couple of weeks after opening, especially in humid environments. If you have to store, keep in a cool dry area. Places in your garage are exposed to the outside regularly which contains a lot more moisture.
Safety and Liability
Using degraded brake fluid increases the risk of system failure. If you're a professional or DIY mechanic, knowingly using compromised fluid could lead to safety issues or even legal liability if a failure results in injury or damage. This is especially true for performance, track or drift cars.

5. Tips for Brake Fluid Storage

Always Reseal Tightly: If you absolutely need to store an opened bottle for a short time, make sure the cap is tightly sealed to reduce air and moisture ingress. Keep in a cool dry area.
Label with the Date of Opening:This helps track the age of the fluid and avoid using it beyond a timely matter.
Store in a Cool, Dry Place Away from Sunlight:Heat and UV exposure accelerate chemical breakdown and make the fluid absorb moisture faster. If all possible, keep it out of your garage which has a higher humidity than a temperature controlled location.
Discard Opened Containers After a Certain Time:We recommend discarding opened containers after a few days to two weeks, depending on conditions. Better safe than sorry when it comes to brakes. If this is for your track car, this step is especially important, as the fluid is heating and expanding a lot more often.

6. Conclusion

While it may be convenient and cost-effective in the short term to keep an open container of brake fluid, the long-term risks to vehicle safety and system reliability far outweigh the benefits. Moisture absorption, contamination, and degradation occur rapidly once exposed to air. Whenever possible, use fresh fluid, and treat open containers as short-term solutions only.

BMW ZF Transmission Service Bulletins and Repair

Justin Schaub — Thu, 29 May 2025 09:01:00 -0400

One of BMW enthusiast’s favorite manual transmission is the ZF gearbox that came in multiple different generations of cars. As good and strong as this transmission is, there was a fault that BMW found, forcing them to issue a couple of service bulletins and offer a repair kit for the problem.

In the ZF 260Z/280Z/310Z and 320Z, the transmissions developed an issue with the detents which increased the force needed to disengage the gears and/or increased the force needed up to the gear escapement when engaging gears.

This is only an issue to be considered if it occurs with the transmission is at a normal operating temperature. The viscosity of the oil means that the incorrect diagnosis cannot be ruled out when the transmission is cold.

The cause of this issue, is the detent pin catches in the pilot hole (bushing).

Two BMW service bulletins were released.

What is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

An automaker issues a technical service bulletin (TSB) when it becomes aware of common problems with a particular make and model, often from one or more model years. Those problems may have been reported by car owners, repair shops, or discovered by the automaker itself. When the automaker finds a solution to the problem, they can issue a TSB that advises its own service bays on how to fix it. These bulletins can cover issues such as faulty switches, sensor malfunctions, or unusual noises.

What Will You Experience In Your Transmission If You Have This Problem?

It is difficult to move the gear lever into and out of the 5th /reverse gear shift gate.
The gear lever does not automatically move from the 5th/reverse gear shift gate back to the center position (5th gear lean)
No shift gate guidance (sloppy shifter)

Affected Engines:

E46 M47 start of series production until August 2001
E46 M47 (318d) start of series production until March 2002
E46 M52TU B28, M54 B30 start of series production until March 2002
E39 M47 start of series production until March 2002
E39 M52TU B28, M54 B30, M62 B35 start of series production until March 2002 E39 M54 B25 (Touring) start of series production until March 2002
E53 M45 B30 start of series production unlit March 2002
E36/Z3/ M52TU B28, M54 B30 start of series production until March 2002
E36/Z3 S50/S52 start of series production until July 2000 E367/ S54 start of series production until March 2002
E38 M51, E38 M52TU B28, M45 B30, M62 B35 start of series production until end fo series production

Is it Hard to Fix?

The solution to fix this issue is not as hard as you think but it does take some mechanical experience, and a little confidence to work on a transmission. You will need to remove the transmission to resolve this issue. We have created an easy walk-through video (below) to show you what it takes to replace the detents and bushings.

We have also created an easy kit that includes all of the components you will need. To drive the bushings in, BMW recommends using their custom drift tools. These are no longer available from BMW, but we created exact replicas that you can purchase for an extra cost. These are recommended, but customers have been able to use a series of other tools (like sockets) to drive the bushings in. The advantage of using the official drift tools is, it drives the bushing in at the exact depth needed. This creates a foolproof method to prevent any mistakes.

Links to the BMW Service Bulletins:

Watch our Repair Fix Video Here:

Ultimate BMW E36 Transmission & Differential Guide

Justin Schaub — Thu, 29 May 2025 09:20:00 -0400

Introduction:

Something you don’t always think about when building your car is the gear ratios and how they play an important role. Depending on what type of transmission you have, and what final drive (differential), it can drastically change the acceleration and top speed of your car even with the same engine. Of course, there are many other factors that can be in play, like unsprung weight (wheels and tires), but for the sake of this blog, we are only going to be talking about E36 manual transmissions. And the end of the article I will give a quick overview of the automatic transmissions, but I assume most people reading this will only want to know the information on the manuals.

Types of E36 Transmissions:

The E36 in the USA came with 4 different kinds of manual transmissions:

Getrag S5D 200G (1992-1995 318i)
Getrag S5D 250G (1996-1998 318i, All 323i/325i)
ZF S5D 310Z (USA 1995 M3)
ZF S5D 320Z (328i/1996-1999 M3)

Data:

Each one of these transmissions has different gear ratios per gear. Everyone is kind of familiar (even if you don’t know what it means), with rear-end differential gear ratios (3.73, 4.10, 3.25, etc). Each gear of the gearbox has a set of gears to give its own ratio as well. What this means is you can have shorter or longer gears depending on what your driving style is. Most of the time 1st gear is very short (high gear ratio number) and the last gear, sometimes called overdrive is a long gear (short gear ratio number). Here are the gear ratios of each gear in these transmissions.

As you can see, all of the transmissions feature a similar gear ratio, which is in design by the BMW engineers. What is different is the strength of the transmission. Since the Getrag transmissions came on the lower horsepower models (318,323,325) they were not built to hold as much power. The Getrag transmissions are also notorious for weak synchros and a 2nd gear. Does this mean they are bad transmissions? No, we have had Getrag S5D 250 G transmissions hold up to stock S52 power just fine on track, but I would not add more power, or drift with these transmissions. So obviously the coveted transmission is the ZF series of boxes which can be expensive to get, and also come with their own set of problems. These have been known to have detent issues, causing a lack of return to center on the shifter, and a 5th gear lean. Luckily this is an easy fix with the detent repair kit (link below).

Differentials:

Ok, now let's get into differentials. Since the gearing on the transmissions is relatively the same, the rear end is what’s going to make everything feel different depending on your driving style. Here are the differentials that came with each model.

*Many of these BMWs could be specially ordered with custom differentials by the customer, so always verify the metal tag on the differential when looking.

As you can see the final drive ratios are kind of all over the place. There are advantages and disadvantages of using a shorter or longer gear. Most of the automatic cars came with a shorter (bigger number) gear ratio resulting in faster acceleration. If you are doing a lot of highway driving, you may want to opt for a longer gear ratio (smaller number) to get the best top speed and lowest RPM.

All of this can be tricky and may take some trial and error to see what works best on track or the street. Keep in mind that although all of these transmissions can be swapped on any of the engines, the driveshafts and shifter linkages can not. You will need to source the correct driveshaft and shifter linkage when converting to a different transmission.

Bonus Material:

If you are looking to swap transmissions, all of these share the same bell housing bolt pattern. This means you can install any transmission onto any engine (4 or 6 cyl) without modification. The flywheel and clutch share the same spline and bolt pattern as well. The difference will come in the size of the flywheel.

Automatic Transmissions:

Although not as popular for obvious reasons, the E36 did come with a few different types of automatic transmissions. Here are the gear ratios:

Giubo (Not Guibo) - You've Been Saying It Wrong

Justin Schaub — Tue, 10 Jun 2025 06:49:00 -0400

Introduction:

If you have worked on a BMW, there is a good chance you have probably changed the giubo. I bet you already think I have misspelled this little rubber beauty, but let’s take a quick look into the history, function and pronunciation of this glorious driveline part.

The giubo (always misspelled as “guibo”) is also known as a flex joint or flex disc. This flexible coupler is used to transmit a rotational torque between the transmission and driveshaft. The giubo is usually made from a flexible rubber which allows for slight twisting and misalignment of the driveline while reducing vibration as much as possible. This is a great thing, because the amount of torque that is transmitted from your engine to your transmission, through the driveshaft and into the differential is a lot. By allowing slight rotational twisting it, it saves wear and tear on a lot of your driveline components. The elasticity of the rubber absorbs vibration and flexes.

How to say its Name:

The name giubo is a portmanteau (blending of two words), of the Italian words giunto (joint) and boschi (the last name of the Italian engineer who designed it). This amazing part was developed by an Italian engineer named Antonio Boschi who lived from 1896-1988. BMW must of really had their eye on this technology as it was used in the earliest BMW automobiles. Antonio later developed the Giubo SpA company dedicated to the manufacturing flex discs.

The biggest mistake of all this is not the spelling of the word, but the pronunciation. The giubo is actually pronounced “JOO-boh”. Ha, that’s right, most of us have been saying it wrong our whole life, and I have a good feeling that most of us will continue to pronounce it wrong, which is ok too. At least you can bet one of your friends at the next party and win a free beer.

Cheers!

Damper vs Dampener - The Correct Word Matters

Tue, 10 Jun 2025 07:04:00 -0400

You know what really dampens my damper?

Over my entire automotive career I have heard people use the word dampener in place of a shock. Although I do not always correct them, they are wrong. A shock is actually a damper. Damper and dampener have two different meanings.

Damper: To reduce the amplitude of vibration.

Dampener: to make something moist.

Since we are talking about automotive shocks, the correct term is damper. A damper is something that causes damping. Damping is the effect or verb.

If your shock is dampening, you should probably look into replacing them as they are moist or leaking.

A short blog, but educational nonetheless.

If are you interested in some dampers, we offer a wide array of different ones to fit your needs!

Linear vs Progressive Springs

Justin Schaub — Tue, 10 Jun 2025 07:18:00 -0400

Introduction:

When it comes to suspension systems in cars, one of the primary components that play a crucial role in determining the ride quality is the type of spring used. The two most commonly used types of springs are linear springs and progressive springs. In this blog post, we will discuss the differences between these two types of springs and their respective advantages and disadvantages.

Linear Springs:

Linear springs are the most basic type of spring and are commonly used in coilover suspension systems. As the name suggests, linear springs have a linear rate of compression. This means that the amount of force required to compress the spring remains the same throughout its compression range.

Advantages of Linear Springs:

The main advantage of linear springs is that they offer a predictable and consistent ride quality. Linear springs provide a uniform rate of compression, which ensures that the vehicle's ride height remains constant, and the suspension's overall stiffness is maintained. Linear springs are also relatively simple and cost-effective to manufacture, making them an attractive option for entry-level suspension systems.

Disadvantages of Linear Springs:

The biggest disadvantage of linear springs is that they are not very effective at dealing with rough terrain or sudden impacts. Since they have a fixed rate of compression, they tend to bounce and rebound when subjected to sudden bumps and dips on the road. This can lead to a harsh and uncomfortable ride, especially at high speeds.

Progressive Springs:

Progressive springs, on the other hand, are designed to offer a more refined and sophisticated ride quality. Unlike linear springs, progressive springs have a variable rate of compression. This means that the amount of force required to compress the spring increases as it gets closer to its fully compressed state.

Advantages of Progressive Springs:

The primary advantage of progressive springs is that they provide a more comfortable and controlled ride. The progressive rate of compression allows the suspension to absorb smaller bumps and vibrations without compromising the overall stiffness and stability of the suspension. This leads to a smoother and more responsive ride, especially in rough terrain or high-speed driving conditions.

Disadvantages of Progressive Springs:

The main disadvantage of progressive springs is that they are more expensive to manufacture than linear springs. Progressive springs require more complex design and manufacturing processes to achieve their variable rate of compression. This can make them less accessible for entry-level suspension systems and more exclusive to high-performance and premium suspension setups.

In conclusion, both linear and progressive springs have their respective advantages and disadvantages. Linear springs offer a predictable and cost-effective ride quality, while progressive springs provide a refined and sophisticated ride experience at a higher cost. Ultimately, the choice between the two depends on the vehicle's application, budget, and the desired ride quality.

Shop a full line of springs, coilovers and suspension at www.racegerman.com

General Torque Values When No Torque Is Called Out

Justin Schaub — Tue, 10 Jun 2025 08:02:00 -0400

We are big proponent of using the correct value on any job you do on your car. The engineers are most likely smarter than you, and have run every component of the car through stress analysis. They assign torque values depending on the location, the component, the bolt class and more. That being said, sometimes torque values are not called out, so how do you know what to torque the fastener to? Many people would just say "guten tight," but the industry does have generic torque values for fasteners that can be followed when no value is called out.

We have compiled a list of the most common fastener sizes and given you the generic torque values in case of emergency. Make sure to bookmark this article!

HOW TO TORQUE A FASTENER:

Make sure your torque wrench is calibrated. This is very important, because if it is not, then you will get false readings, and could possibly under or over torque your fastener. If you ever drop a torque wrench, please get it recalibrated before using it again.
Be sure the bolt and nut threads are clean. If dirt or gunk is present on the threads, it can cause more resistance when tightening the fastener, giving you a false torque reading.
Run the nut down as close as you can to the washer or joint surface. If there is friction on the nut while you are running it down the fastener, make sure you measure this resistance and add it to your final torque value. This is called run-down torque (torque to overcome the friction of the nut).
Whenever possible, apply the torque to the nut and not the bolt. This will reduce the rotation of the bolt in the hole which could cause wear.
Apply a smooth, even pull with the wrench. If jerking of the wrench occurs, you can get a false torque reading. If this happens, back off the nut and retorque.

BMW Chassis Codes - Which Is Yours?

Justin Schaub — Tue, 10 Jun 2025 11:52:00 -0400

Sometimes it is hard to keep up with all the new and old BMWs out there, but the manufacturer helped make this a little simpler by using chassis codes. These are internal codes for each style or generation that is a shorthand form to explain body and platform types. The chassis codes are a mix of letters and numbers that identify each car.

All BMWs from the 1960s until 2008 used a chassis code starting with “E.” The E stood for Entwicklung, which is German for development. After BMW ran out of numbers to associate with the “E” code, they started going down the alphabet to use chassis codes starting with “F” (2009-2019), and now onto “G” (2016-Present). Although the “F” and “G” do not have any German word associated with them, it made sense to continue to go down the alphabet to easily keep track of each new model.

Over the years BMW has released so many models that it is sometimes hard to follow or remember which chassis code you have. That being said, it is very important to know as well, because it easily distinguishes which model you have if you are doing research on features, maintenance, or troubleshooting.

To make this easy, we have compiled all the common codes below for you to reference. Note this list only goes to present day (2025).

Series	Chassis Code	Years
1 Series	E81	2007-2011
1 Series	E82	2008-2013
1 Series	E87	2004-2011
1 Series	E88	2008-2013
2 Series	F22	2014–2021
2 Series	F23	2014–2021
2 Series	F44	2020–present
2 Series	F87 M2	2016-2021
2 Series	G42	2021–present
2 Series	G87 M2	2023–present
3 Series	E21	1975–1983
3 Series	E30	1982–1994
3 Series	E36	1990–2000
3 Series	E46	1998–2006
3 Series	E90/E91/E92/E93	2005–2013
3 Series	F30/F31/F34	2012–2019
3 Series	G20/G21	2019–present
3 Series	G80 M3	2021-present
3 Series (Neue Klasse)	NA0/NA1	2026 (coming)
4 Series	F32/F33/F36	2013–2020
4 Series	G22/G23/G26	2020–present
4 Series	G82 M4	2020–present
4 Series	G83 M4	2021–present
5 Series	E12	1972–1981
5 Series	E28	1981–1988
5 Series	E34	1988–1996
5 Series	E39	1995–2004
5 Series	E60	2003–2010
5 Series	F10	2010–2017
5 Series	G30/G31	2017–present
5 Series	F90 M5	2018-2023
5 Series	G90/G99 M5	2024-present
6 Series	E24	1976–1989
6 Series	E63/E64	2003–2010
6 Series	F06/F12/F13	2011–2018
7 Series	E23	1977–1986
7 Series	E32	1986–1994
7 Series	E38	1994–2001
7 Series	F01/F02	2008–2015
7 Series	G11/G12	2015–2022
8 Series	E31	1990–1999
8 Series	F91/F92/F93 M8	2020-present
8 Series	G14/G15/G16	2018–present
X1	E84	2009–2015
X1	F48	2016–2022
X1	U11	2023–present
X3	E83	2003–2010
X3	F25	2010–2017
X3M	F97	2020-2024
X3	G01	2017–present
X3	G45	2024–present
X3M	G97	2025 (coming)
X5	E53	1999–2006
X5	E70	2006–2013
X5	F15	2014–2016
X5M	F85	2015-2018
X5M	F95	2020-2024
X5M	G95	2025 (coming)
X6	E71	2008-2014
X6	F16	2015-2019
X6	G06	2020-2024
X6	G66	2025 (coming)
X6M	F86	2015-2019
X6M	F96	2020-2024
X6M	G96	2025 (coming)
X5	G05	2018–present
Z3	E36/7	1995-2002
Z4	E85/E86	2002-2008
Z4	E89	2009-2016
Z4	G29	2018-present

Shop OEM + Aftermarket BMW parts at www.racegerman.com

How to Use & Hold a Torque Wrench Properly

Wed, 11 Jun 2025 08:10:00 -0400

Introduction:

If are you a seasoned mechanic, or just starting out, knowing how to use a torque wrench is a crucial part of automotive maintenance. A torque wrench is an essential tool to apply precise force when tightening any type of fastener. Whether you are torquing your wheels, a suspension arm, or head bolts, too little torque can lead to loosening of the fastener, or too much torque can cause damage to the component, or even shearing of the bolt. BMW engineers have stress tested all these components and have a call out for all the specific nuts and bolts on the car that should be followed. These torque values are very specific to the application and the class of bolt being used (ie 8.8, 10.9). If you want to learn about classes of bolts, please read our blog HERE.

What is a Torque Wrench?

A torque wrench is a precise tool use to apply a specific torque value to a fastener. It ensures bolts and nuts are tightened to manufacturer specifications. There are 3 main types of torque wrenches:

Click Type: The most popular style by mechanics. These work by twisting the grip on the bottom to adjust the torque value up and down. The emit a click noise when the proper torque value is reached.
Beam Type: An older style torque wrench, but arguably the most reliable of the 3. The wrench allows you to adjust the torque value very fast. With this type, the torque is achieved by a scale and pointer, but some models will also click when the torque value is met.
Digital Type: The newest of the 3, and the most expensive. The torque value is set on a digital screen, and when the torque is met, an audible beep will be heard. More expensive versions of these can also torque in degrees, which is common when tightening internal engine components.

Step by Step: How to Properly Use a Torque Wrench:

Select the correct torque value given by the manufacturer from a manual or service guide.
Set the wrenches value. If click type, screw the handle up and down, if beam type, adjust the knob to the correct value, if digital type, use the screen on the wrench and set the value there.
Attach the correct socket/crows foot to match the fastener being tightened.
Tighten slowly and steadily, do not go to fast or yank to tighten. Keep tightening until the audible click, or beep is heard.

Where to Hold the Torque Wrench:

Every torque wrench explained above has a handle. This is either the knurled section of the wrench or a rubber handle found on most digital wrenches. It is very important to tighten the fastener while holding the handle, and not any other part of the wrench. If you hold the wrench in the middle, you will receive an incorrect torque on the fastener. This is because it changes the arm, which ultimately changes the amount of force being applied.

Why Holding it Incorrectly Affects Torque:

As stated above, holding the wrench in a location other than the handle can affect the actual torque value. On a beam type torque wrench, holding off center bends the beam differently and an incorrect torque value is applied. On a click type torque wrench, the same principle is applied. Gripping near the head of the wrench may reduce the torque you “think” you’re applying. Gripping too far back can increase the torque value by over 10%, resulting in over torquing the fastener.

Tightening with a Crows Foot:

A crows foot is a very special tool, but if used improperly on a torque wrench, it can cause you to over or under torque a fastener. When using a crows foot, always keep it at 90 degrees to the head. In some instances, this is not possible, and the crows foot will have to be placed at 0 or 180 degrees on the head. In this scenario, some math will need to be done. With a crows foot extended out, you are essentially making the torque wrench longer, which will apply more torque. This is also overlooked, or not known by mechanics. The following picture with formulas can be used to determine what to set the torque wrench to in these scenarios.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

Do not use an extension or breaker bar on the handle of the torque wrench. This can damage the internals and most certainly give you an incorrect torque reading.
Do not overtighten the fastener past the click. Once the wrench clicks or beeps stop. Over torquing the fastener can stretch the bolt. If a fastener is over torqued, loosen with a wrench or breaker bar, and retighten to the correct value.
Do not loosen bolts with your torque wrench, unless the manufacturer of the wrench says this is acceptable. It is always best practice to loosen a bolt with a breaker bar, wrench or ratchet, and then apply torque with the torque wrench.
Although there is some discussion on this one, most mechanics would say to set the torque wrench back to zero when not being used. This keeps stress off the internal springs during storage.

Tips for Accurate Torque:

Calibrate your wrench annually. Most new torque wrenches come with a calibration sticker from the factory. If the torque wrench is accidentally dropped on the floor, it is best to get it tested again to see if it came out of spec.
Grip in the correct place to avoid over or under torquing.
Do not jerk or pull the torque wrench. Make a smooth and even force when applying torque to a fastener.
When possible, always apply torque to the nut side of a bolt/nut assembly.

Conclusion:

A torque wrench is a crucial tool in any mechanics toolbox, but it is only good if used properly. Even if the wrench is calibrated correctly, but held in the wrong position, an incorrect torque value can be applied. Follow proper handling practices and you will extend the life of the tool. Wrench on!

Fluid Flush: Fill To Spill (What is It?)

Justin Schaub — Thu, 12 Jun 2025 15:48:00 -0400

Introduction:

Many newcomers to automotive maintenance may not be familiar with this process but is essentially for changing the fluids in your most important driveline components. If you have just purchased a new (to you) BMW, track your car, or just unsure the last time your transmission or differential fluid was changed, this article will be helpful to you.

BMW, and many other manufacturers have taken the guess work out of adding the correct quantity of fluid to these components. Even though you can find the exact quantity in the service or maintenance manual, you do not have to worry about adding this to the tee if you are changing the fluid.

The concept is called “fill to spill”. This method ensures the gearbox or differential receives the correct amount, no guesswork, no drama.

Tools & Supplies:

To get started you will need to find out the correct fluid for your application. This can be found in the service or maintenance manual for your car. In addition to the fluid, you will need a fluid transfer pump to transfer the fluid to your transmission or differential. Recently, manufacturers have been offering an easy squeeze pouch which really makes this process simple. You will also need a pan for catching fluid, gloves, and some towels to clean up any spills. Don’t forget the correct socket to remove the fill and drain plugs.

Drain out the Old Fluid:

Next you will need to find the fill and drain plugs on your component. If you are looking at your transmission or differential, there will always be two plugs. One will be for the drain, and one will be for the fill. The drain plug will always be lower than the fill plug.

Pro Tip: Before removing the drain plug, always loosen the fill plug. By doing this we can ensure that the fill plug is not stripped, corroded, or just can’t remove. The last thing you want to do is remove the drain plug, drain your fluid, and not be able to fill the component again leaving you stranded.

Inspect the Fluids:

Make sure you inspect the fluid. If the fluid is old, it will smell and look dark. You want to look for metal shavings (shimmer) in the fluid, to tell the health of the component.

Fill to Spill Explained: “How Much Juice is Enough?”

Once the fluid is drained completely, you will replace the drain plug and torque to manufacturer specifications. It is always a good idea to replace the drain plug with a brand new one, but if you cannot, at least replace the gasket if it has one. Some BMW transmissions use a NPT thread (national pipe thread), which is tapered and does not require a copper gasket. These are self sealing.

Remove the fill plug which sits above the drain plug. Note on the transmission, the fill plug is usually on the side of the transmission. Pump fresh fluid into the opening slowly. Keep doing this until fluid starts to dribble out the fill hole. That’s it! The engineers were clever enough to put the fill plug at the exact height in the differential or transmission to give you the exact amount of fluid needed. When this starts to occur, install the fill plug and torque.

Conclusion:

This is a short but meaningful blog. These are simple concepts, but many new mechanics should know the basics.

If you are looking for fluid, plugs or transfer pumps for your project, we sell these parts on the website at www.racegerman.com

Wheel Offset Explained! Easy

Justin Schaub — Sat, 21 Jun 2025 12:27:00 -0400

Introduction: Offset? What the Heck Is It? Why So Complicated?

Offset is the measurement that tells you how far in or out your wheels sit relative to your car’s hub. In other words, it’s the key spec that decides whether your wheels tuck nicely under your fenders or stick out like a sore thumb. Get it wrong, and you’ll be dealing with tire rub, worn suspension bits, or a stance only a mother could love.

The Three Flavors: Positive, Negative, and Zero Offset

Positive Offset: This is what you’ll find on most modern factory rides. Hub mounting surface sits closer to the wheel face. The wheel is “sucked in” toward the car, great for keeping everything inside the fenders and suspension happy.
Negative Offset: Here the hub mounting surface is closer to the back of the wheel—think of those deep-dish wheels you see on old-school or off-road rigs. This setup “pushes” the wheel out for a wider track, but if you’re not careful, you’ll shred your fenders faster than a burnout contest.
Zero Offset: The hub mounting surface lines up dead-center with the wheel width. Rare in the wild, but perfect if you want your wheels to sit in the “Goldilocks zone”—not too far in, not too far out

How to Read Offset Numbers:

Look for “ET” or a plus/minus sign on the wheel—example: ET35, +40mm, or -12mm. ET stands for the German word “Einpresstiefe” (press-in depth), but all you need to know is:

Positive numbers(e.g., +35mm) mean the wheel sits more inward.
Negative numbers(e.g., -12mm) mean the wheel pokes outward.
The number itself is the distance in millimeters from the wheel’s centerline to the hub mounting surface.

Why Offset Matters?

Suspension Clearance:Offset decides if your wheels are going to rub on your control arms, brake calipers, or struts. Too much poke and you’ll be getting acquainted with your fender lip real quick.
Fender Fitment:Wheels that stick out too far can eat fenders alive—especially on lowered cars. Too far in, and your setup just looks awkward (or won’t even fit over the suspension).
Wheel Bearing Stress:Wrong offset means extra stress on your wheel bearings, which can lead to premature wear and expensive repairs.

How to Choose the Right Offset:

Stock Specs vs. Custom Fitment:Always start by checking your vehicle’s OEM offset. If you want a custom look, research what fits without hitting anything.
Dialing It In:Use online calculators or reach out to wheel/tire pros before ordering. Remember, a couple millimeters can make all the difference!
Test Fit When You Can:If you have access to the wheels, test fit before mounting tires to avoid heartbreak (and extra labor).

FAQs:

FAQ 1:“Can I just run spacers?” Spacers can adjust your offset, but overdoing it puts stress on your studs/bolts and bearings.
FAQ 2:“Is lower offset always better for looks?” Not always—too much poke is bad for drivability and safety.
Pro Tip:Always check with your alignment shop or fellow enthusiasts to see what works on your specific chassis.

Understanding BMW VANOS: History, Function, Common Failures & Engine Codes

Justin Schaub — Tue, 19 May 2026 10:49:00 -0400

Understanding BMW VANOS: History, Function, Common Failures & Engine Codes

Race German VANOS rebuild kits are one of our top selling products, with over 5000 kits sold worldwide! You can purchase them below:

Single VANOS Rebuild Kit: BUY HERE
Dual VANOS Rebuild Kit: BUY HERE
S54 VANOS Rebuild Kit: BUY HERE
M62tu VANOS Rebuild Kit: BUY HERE

BMW has long been known for building engines that balance smooth power delivery, high RPM performance, and everyday drivability. One of the technologies largely responsible for that reputation is BMW’s VANOS system. Introduced in the early 1990s, VANOS became one of BMW’s most important engine innovations, improving horsepower, torque, fuel economy, and emissions across a wide range of inline-6 and V8 engines.

Over the years BMW developed several versions of VANOS, including Single VANOS, Double VANOS, the high-performance S54 VANOS system, and the V8 M62TU VANOS setup. While these systems greatly improved engine performance, they also introduced new maintenance concerns and common failure points that BMW enthusiasts know well today.

What Does VANOS Mean?

VANOS stands for:

VAriable NOckenwellen Steuerung

Translated from German, it means:

Variable Camshaft Timing

The VANOS system allows the engine computer to adjust camshaft timing while the engine is running. By changing valve timing dynamically, the engine can operate more efficiently at different RPM ranges and engine loads.

What Does BMW VANOS Do?

The purpose of VANOS is to optimize engine performance under different driving conditions.

At low RPMs, VANOS can advance cam timing to improve low-end torque and throttle response. At higher RPMs, the system can retard timing to improve horsepower and engine breathing.

Benefits of VANOS include:

Improved low-end torque
Better throttle response
Increased horsepower
Smoother idle quality
Improved fuel economy
Reduced exhaust emissions

Without variable valve timing, engines must compromise between low RPM drivability and high RPM power. VANOS allows BMW engines to perform well in both situations.

How BMW VANOS Works

BMW VANOS systems use oil pressure and electronically controlled solenoids to adjust camshaft position.

The system works like this:

The DME (BMW’s engine computer) monitors engine RPM, load, throttle position, and temperature.
The DME activates a VANOS solenoid.
The solenoid directs pressurized engine oil into the VANOS unit.
Oil pressure moves internal pistons or gears that rotate the camshaft slightly.
The camshaft timing changes depending on engine operating conditions.

The system constantly adjusts timing in real time while the engine runs.

Key VANOS components include:

VANOS solenoids
Camshaft gears
Oil passages
Timing chain
Camshaft position sensors
Engine control module (DME)

Because VANOS relies heavily on clean oil pressure, neglected oil changes are one of the leading causes of VANOS-related failures.

Single VANOS

BMW introduced Single VANOS in the early 1990s.

This first-generation system adjusted only the intake camshaft timing. Compared to older fixed-timing engines, Single VANOS improved low-end torque and overall drivability without significantly increasing engine complexity.

Single VANOS systems are relatively simple and reliable compared to later BMW variable timing systems.

Common Single VANOS Engines

M50TU
M52
S50US

Common BMW Chassis Using Single VANOS

BMW E34
BMW E36
BMW E39
BMW Z3

Common Single VANOS Problems

Worn VANOS seals
Solenoid failure
Oil sludge buildup
Camshaft sensor faults

Typical symptoms include sluggish low-end power, hesitation, rough idle, and check engine lights.

Double VANOS (Dual VANOS)

BMW later introduced Double VANOS, also known as Dual VANOS.

Unlike Single VANOS, this system controls both the intake and exhaust camshafts independently. This gave BMW engineers much greater control over engine performance and emissions.

Double VANOS greatly broadened the torque curve and improved fuel economy while maintaining strong top-end power.

Common Dual VANOS Engines

M52TU
M54
M56
N62
S54

Common BMW Chassis Using Dual VANOS

BMW E46
BMW E39
BMW E53
BMW E60
BMW Z4

Common Dual VANOS Failures

Dual VANOS systems added more complexity, which also increased common failure points.

Typical issues include:

Hardened VANOS piston seals
Sticking solenoids
Timing chain wear
Camshaft sensor failure
Oil pressure problems

As seals wear out, the system may struggle to properly adjust timing, causing noticeable power loss and drivability issues.

S54 VANOS System

The S54 engine found in the legendary BMW E46 M3 uses one of BMW’s most advanced and aggressive VANOS systems.

Unlike standard BMW engines, the S54 VANOS system uses a high-pressure oil pump and rapidly adjusts both intake and exhaust timing for maximum performance.

The S54’s VANOS system played a major role in helping the 3.2L inline-6 produce over 100 horsepower per liter naturally aspirated — an impressive achievement for its time.

Common S54 VANOS Applications

BMW E46 M3
BMW Z3 M Coupe
BMW Z4 M Coupe
BMW Z4 M Roadster

Common S54 VANOS Failures

The S54 VANOS system is well known for several serious failure points:

Exhaust hub tab failure
VANOS oil pump disc failure
Solenoid pack issues
Cam gear wear
Loose exhaust hub bolts

Symptoms may include:

Metallic rattling noises
Engine timing faults
Loss of power
Misfires
Check engine lights

Many enthusiasts proactively rebuild or reinforce S54 VANOS systems to prevent catastrophic damage.

M62TU VANOS System

BMW introduced VANOS to its V8 lineup with the M62TU engine.

“TU” stands for “Technical Update,” and this version of the M62 added Single VANOS to the intake camshafts.

The result was improved low-end torque and smoother drivability compared to earlier non-VANOS M62 engines.

Common M62TU Applications

BMW E39
BMW E38
BMW X5 E53

Common M62TU VANOS Problems

M62TU engines are known for several timing-related issues:

Timing chain guide failure
Worn VANOS seals
Oil sludge buildup
Solenoid failure
Timing chain tensioner wear

One of the most serious failures on M62TU engines is timing chain guide deterioration. Broken guides can cause timing errors, startup rattles, and even catastrophic engine damage if ignored.

Common BMW VANOS Failures

Worn VANOS Seals

One of the most common BMW VANOS issues is worn internal piston seals.

Over time, heat causes the factory rubber seals to harden and lose sealing ability. When this happens, oil pressure leaks internally and the VANOS unit cannot properly adjust cam timing.

Symptoms

Loss of low-end torque
Hesitation during acceleration
Rough idle
Poor fuel economy
Reduced throttle response

VANOS Solenoid Failure

VANOS solenoids control oil flow into the VANOS unit. Dirty oil and sludge buildup commonly cause these solenoids to stick or fail.

Symptoms

Check engine light
Rough idle
Power loss
Intermittent hesitation
Reduced fuel economy

Camshaft Position Sensor Failure

The DME relies on camshaft position sensors to monitor timing adjustments. Faulty sensors can confuse the VANOS system and trigger timing errors.

Symptoms

Hard starting
Stalling
Misfires
Reduced performance
Timing-related fault codes

Common BMW VANOS Engine Codes

BMW VANOS failures commonly trigger engine fault codes and check engine lights.

Common OBD-II VANOS Codes

Intake Timing Codes

P0011 — Intake Camshaft Timing Over-Advanced
P0012 — Intake Camshaft Timing Over-Retarded

Exhaust Timing Codes

P0021 — Exhaust Camshaft Timing Over-Advanced
P0022 — Exhaust Camshaft Timing Over-Retarded

Correlation Codes

P0016 — Crankshaft/Camshaft Correlation
P0017 — Camshaft Position Correlation

Common BMW-Specific VANOS Codes

2A82 — VANOS Intake Fault
2A87 — VANOS Exhaust Fault
212 — VANOS mechanically stuck
214 — VANOS timing deviation

These codes often indicate problems with oil pressure, worn VANOS seals, timing chain wear, or failed solenoids.

Symptoms of a Failing BMW VANOS System

A failing VANOS system can create a wide variety of drivability issues.

Common symptoms include:

Rough idle
Loss of power
Poor throttle response
Reduced fuel economy
Hesitation during acceleration
Cold start problems
Startup rattles
Check engine lights
Loss of high RPM power

Because VANOS directly affects valve timing, even small issues can noticeably change engine behavior.

Why VANOS Maintenance Matters

Proper maintenance is critical for long-term VANOS reliability.

Recommended maintenance includes:

Regular oil changes
Using correct BMW-approved oil viscosity
Replacing failing solenoids early
Monitoring timing chain condition
Replacing worn VANOS seals proactively

BMW VANOS systems depend heavily on clean oil pressure. Engines with neglected oil service histories are significantly more likely to develop VANOS problems over time.

Conclusion

BMW’s VANOS system was a major step forward in engine technology and helped define the responsive, smooth power delivery BMW became known for throughout the 1990s and 2000s.

From early Single VANOS systems to the high-performance S54 setup, VANOS allowed BMW engines to deliver strong low-end torque, improved efficiency, and high RPM performance all in one package.

While VANOS systems can develop failures as engines age, proper maintenance and early repairs can keep these engines running smoothly for hundreds of thousands of miles.

Whether you own an BMW E36, BMW E46 M3, or a V8-powered BMW E39, understanding VANOS is essential for diagnosing and maintaining peak BMW performance.

Know The Differences Between all 3 E36 Grilles & Nose Panels

Justin Schaub — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 09:13:00 -0400

BMW E36 Nose Panels and Kidney Grilles: Understanding the 92-95, 1996, and 97-99 Differences

If you've ever searched for an E36 nose panel or kidney grilles, you've probably discovered that not all E36 front ends are the same. BMW made several changes throughout E36 production, creating fitment confusion for owners restoring their cars, repairing collision damage, or converting to a different front-end style.

For North American E36 models, there are three distinct nose panel and kidney grille combinations commonly encountered: 1992-1995, 1996, and 1997-1999.

1992-1995: Early E36 Front End

The early E36 models utilize a nose panel with smaller, more squared-off kidney grille openings. This design was used throughout the initial years of E36 production and is instantly recognizable by its more vertical and angular appearance.

Nose Panel Part Number: 41338122279

Kidney Grilles:

Left: 51138122237
Right: 51138122238

This setup was used on most North American E36 models through the 1995 model year.

1996: The One-Year-Only Transitional Setup

The 1996 model year is unique and often catches E36 owners by surprise. While it may appear similar to later facelift cars at first glance, BMW introduced a transitional nose panel and kidney grille design that was only used for a single model year.

Nose Panel Part Number: 41338146947

Kidney Grilles:

Left: 51138185801
Right: 51138185802

Because of its one-year-only status, 1996 parts can be more difficult to source and are frequently mixed up with both 1995 and 1997+ components.

1997-1999: Facelift E36 Front End

For the final years of E36 production, BMW updated the front end with larger, wider kidney grilles and a revised nose panel. This facelift design provides a more modern appearance and is the style most enthusiasts associate with late-production E36 M3s.

Nose Panel Part Number: 41338225981

Kidney Grilles:

Left: 51138195151
Right: 51138195152

The facelift design remained in production through the end of E36 production in North America.

Can You Swap Between Them?

All E36 nose panels physically mount to the vehicle in the same location, but the nose panel and kidney grilles must match one another.

For example:

A 1995 nose panel requires 1992-1995 grilles.
A 1996 nose panel requires 1996-only grilles.
A 1997-1999 nose panel requires 1997-1999 grilles.

Mixing grille styles between nose panels will result in poor fitment or prevent installation altogether.

Why This Matters

Many E36s have been repaired, modified, or facelift-converted over the last 25+ years. It's common to find a 1995 vehicle wearing a 1997 front end or a 1996 car with replacement components from another year.

Before ordering replacement kidney grilles or a nose panel, always identify which front-end style is currently installed on the vehicle rather than relying solely on the model year.

Doing so will save time, prevent fitment issues, and ensure your E36 looks exactly the way BMW intended.

At Race German, we're always happy to help identify the correct parts for your BMW. If you're unsure which nose panel or kidney grilles your E36 uses, contact us and we'll help you get the right components the first time.

info@racegerman.com

BMW Part Numbers Explained: How to Read BMW OEM Part Numbers Like a Pro

Justin Schaub — Wed, 08 Jul 2026 10:09:00 -0400

BMW Part Numbers Explained: How to Read BMW OEM Part Numbers Like a Pro

Race German now offers OEM BMW Parts: CLICK TO SHOP

Ever wonder what all those numbers on a BMW part actually mean?

Whether you're ordering replacement parts, researching upgrades, or simply trying to make sense of BMW's parts catalog, understanding BMW part numbers can save you time, money, and frustration.

The good news is that BMW's numbering system isn't random. Every genuine BMW part number follows a logical structure that tells you exactly what type of part you're looking at.

At Race German, we're going to break it all down.

What Does a BMW Part Number Look Like?

Most BMW OEM part numbers are 11 digits long, usually displayed like this:

11 42 7 838 560

Or sometimes without spaces:

11427838560

Each section has a specific meaning.

Digits	Meaning	Example
First 2	Main Group	11
Second 2	Sub Group	42
Last 7	Unique Part Number	7838560

Breaking Down a BMW Part Number

Let's use this oil filter example:

11 42 7 838 560

It breaks down like this:

11 | 42 | 7 838 560

│ │ │

│ │ └── Unique part identifier

│ └────────── Subgroup

└──────────────── Main Group

The First Two Digits: Main Group

These identify the major vehicle system. Think of these like chapters in a repair manual.

Main Group	Category
11	Engine
12	Engine Electrical
13	Fuel System
16	Fuel Supply
17	Cooling System
18	Exhaust
21	Clutch
22	Engine Mounting / Transmission
23	Manual Transmission
24	Automatic Transmission
25	Gearshift
26	Transfer Case
31	Front Suspension
32	Steering
33	Rear Suspension
34	Brakes
35	Pedals
36	Wheels
41	Body Shell
51	Body Equipment
52	Seats
54	Sunroof
61	Electrical System
62	Instruments
63	Lighting
64	Heating & Air Conditioning
65	Audio / Navigation
66	Distance Sensors
67	Climate Electronics
71	Equipment
72	Accessories

Just by seeing 34, you already know you're looking at a brake component.

The Second Two Digits: Sub Group

These narrow the category even further. For example:

Main Group 11 (Engine)

Sub Group	Description
11	Cylinder Block
12	Cylinder Head
13	Oil Pan
31	Timing Components
42	Oil Filter Housing
51	Water Pump

Another example:

Main Group 34 (Brakes)

Sub Group	Description
11	Front Brakes
21	Rear Brakes
32	Brake Master Cylinder
33	ABS Components

This means two parts that both start with 34 are brake related, while the next two digits specify exactly which brake system.

The Last Seven Digits

These seven digits are simply the unique identifier assigned to that part.

Example:

11 42 7 838 560

The 7838560 identifies one specific oil filter.

Many online BMW parts databases only require these last seven digits when searching.

Why Some BMW Parts Only Show Seven Digits

This confuses almost every BMW owner. You'll often remove a genuine BMW part and only find:

7838560

instead of

11 42 7 838 560

That's completely normal.

BMW often molds or prints only the unique seven-digit identifier directly onto the component because the first four digits simply identify the catalog group and don't change the uniqueness of the part.

What About the Number After the Dash?

Sometimes you'll see something like:

13 53 7 585 261-12

The -12 is called the revision index.

BMW uses revision numbers whenever a part receives manufacturing updates while retaining the same core part number.

These updates could include:

Improved materials
Better sealing
Manufacturing changes
Updated suppliers
Small design improvements

Not every part has a revision number printed on it.

Why BMW Part Numbers Change

You may notice that your original part number has been replaced.

Example:

Old Number

11 42 1 719 855

Now superseded by

11 42 7 838 560

BMW constantly updates components.

Reasons include:

Improved reliability
Supplier changes
Material updates
Consolidating multiple parts into one
Compatibility improvements

Fortunately, BMW's parts catalog automatically tracks supersessions so the newest part replaces the older version.

Can Two Different Cars Use the Same Part Number?

Absolutely. BMW shares thousands of components across multiple chassis.

One oil filter might fit E46, E39, E53, Z3, E60 etc.

That's why searching by part number is much more accurate than searching only by vehicle model.

How to Verify a BMW Part Number

The safest way is by using your VIN.

BMW catalogs compare your production date, engine, transmission, and options before recommending a part.

Never assume two similar-looking parts are interchangeable.

A production split of just one month can completely change the correct part number.

You can also use illustrated parts catalogs like REALOEM to find the part number for your car broken down by sections. www.realoem.com

Pro Tip: Learn the Main Groups

Once you know the first two digits, you can often guess what the part is before even reading the description.

Examples:

11... Engine

17... Cooling

31... Front Suspension

34... Brakes

51... Body

61... Electrical

63... Lighting

After working on BMWs for a while, you'll start recognizing these numbers instantly.

Common Examples

Part	BMW Part Number
Oil Filter	11 42 7 838 560
Cabin Filter	64 XX X XXX XXX
Brake Rotor	34 XX X XXX XXX
Wheel Bolt	36 XX X XXX XXX
Water Pump	11 51 X XXX XXX
Ignition Coil	12 XX X XXX XXX

Notice how the first two digits immediately tell you what system the part belongs to.

Why This Matters

Understanding BMW part numbers helps you:

Order the correct parts the first time
Spot incorrect listings online
Verify compatibility
Identify superseded part numbers
Navigate BMW parts diagrams faster
Become a more informed BMW enthusiast

Whether you're maintaining your daily driver or building a dedicated track car, knowing how BMW organizes its parts makes every repair easier.

Race German Tip

Whenever possible, search using the complete 11-digit BMW part number. While many websites accept the last seven digits, using the full number reduces ambiguity and helps ensure you're ordering the exact component intended for your vehicle. Always confirm fitment with your VIN before purchasing, especially on vehicles with production-date changes or multiple engine options.

Race German now offers OEM BMW Parts: CLICK TO SHOP

Best BMW E36 Cooling System Upgrades: Prevent Overheating Before It Happens

Justin Schaub — Thu, 09 Jul 2026 07:20:00 -0400

Best BMW E36 Cooling System Upgrades: Prevent Overheating Before It Happens

BMW E36 Cooling System Guide | Race German

The BMW E36 is one of the most rewarding driver's cars ever built, but it also has one of the most well-known weak spots: the cooling system.

Whether you own a daily-driven 318i, a weekend canyon carver, an M3 track car, or a turbocharged build making serious horsepower, keeping temperatures under control is critical. Unlike many vehicles, the E36 cooling system relies heavily on plastic components that become brittle with age, often failing without much warning.

The good news? A few carefully chosen upgrades can transform your cooling system from a common failure point into something you can trust for years.

In this guide, we'll break down the Must-Have Cooling Upgrades that every E36 should receive, followed by Highly Recommended Upgrades for spirited driving, track use, or modified cars.

Why the E36 Cooling System Fails

BMW designed the E36 cooling system around lightweight plastic components. While they worked well when new, many are now over 25 years old.

Common failures include:

Cracked radiator necks
Failed expansion tanks
Broken thermostat housings
Water pump failures
Brittle coolant hoses
Worn fan clutches
Failed temperature sensors
Aging hose connectors

Most overheating incidents don't happen because the engine slowly gets hot—they happen because one of these parts suddenly fails, causing the cooling system to lose pressure in seconds.

That's why preventative maintenance is far cheaper than rebuilding an overheated engine.

MUST HAVE UPGRADES

These are the upgrades every E36 owner should prioritize.

1. Aluminum Radiator

The factory radiator uses plastic end tanks that eventually crack, especially around the upper hose neck.

An all-aluminum radiator offers:

Stronger welded construction
Better heat dissipation
Improved durability
Increased coolant capacity
Better cooling during spirited driving

For stock cars, this is excellent insurance.

For turbo or track cars, it's nearly mandatory.

Recommended for:

Daily drivers
Street performance cars
Track cars
Turbo builds

Buy Now:
CSF Aluminum Radiator
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
Z3M S54 Radiator (Great Upgrade If You Want Stock Style Radiator)

2. Stewart High Performance Water Pump

The factory water pump has gone through several revisions over the years, but the Stewart high-performance water pump has earned its reputation as one of the best upgrades available.

Benefits include:

Increased coolant flow
Heavy-duty bearings
Stronger impeller
Longer service life
Improved cooling at idle

This is especially helpful during:

Summer traffic
HPDE events
Autocross
Road racing

Buy Now:
Stewart E36 Water Pump

3. Silicone Radiator Hoses

Factory rubber hoses harden with age.

Silicone replacements provide:

Better heat resistance
Higher pressure capability
Longer lifespan
Improved reliability

While they won't necessarily lower temperatures, they'll greatly reduce the chances of a roadside coolant leak

Buy Now:
E36 Complete Silicone Cooling Hose Kit

4. Aluminum Thermostat Housing

One of the classic E36 failure points.

The original plastic housing becomes brittle over time.

Replacing it with aluminum means:

No cracking
Better sealing
Permanent reliability upgrade

Considering how inexpensive this part is, there's little reason not to upgrade it while servicing the cooling system.

Buy Now:
E36 Aluminum Thermostat Housing

5. New Thermostat

Never replace cooling system components without installing a fresh thermostat.

A sticking thermostat can cause:

Random overheating
Poor heater performance
Slow warm-up
Temperature fluctuations

Choose an OEM-quality thermostat for street cars or a lower-temperature thermostat if your build requires it.

Buy Now:
Upgraded 80 Degree Thermostat

6. Expansion Tank & Cap

The expansion tank is another notorious failure point.

As plastic ages, it develops hairline cracks that can suddenly split under pressure.

Whenever replacing major cooling components, install:

New expansion tank
New pressure cap
New coolant level sensor (if needed)

These inexpensive parts can prevent expensive engine damage.

Buy Now:
E36 Expansion Tank Replacement
E36 Billet Aluminum Radiator Cap
Upgraded Aluminum E36 Expansion Tank

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED UPGRADES

1. Electric Fan Conversion

Replacing the mechanical clutch fan offers several advantages:

Frees up engine power
Faster throttle response
Reduces parasitic drag
Eliminates fan clutch failure
Removes the risk of fan blade explosions

A properly sized electric fan with an appropriate controller can improve cooling while simplifying the front of the engine.

Buy Now:
SPAL 16" Electric Fan
E36 SPAL Relay Harness

2. Aluminum Expansion Tank

Some aftermarket manufacturers offer fully aluminum expansion tanks.

Benefits include:

Eliminates plastic cracking
Better long-term durability
Cleaner engine bay appearance

Especially worthwhile for track or boosted vehicles.

Buy Now:
E36 Aluminum Expansion Tank Upgrade

3. Oil Cooler

Cooling the engine oil also helps control coolant temperatures.

Benefits include:

Lower oil temperatures
Reduced engine wear
Better performance during extended driving
More consistent coolant temperatures

Recommended for:

M3 track cars
Turbo cars
Supercharged cars
Cars driven in hot climates

4. Performance Fan Switch

A lower-temperature fan switch activates the auxiliary fan sooner.

Advantages include:

Reduced heat soak
Improved idle cooling
Better performance in traffic

This inexpensive upgrade pairs well with an aluminum radiator.

Buy Now:
E36 Performance Fan Switch

5. Fresh BMW Coolant

Don't overlook coolant itself.

BMW's blue coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water provides:

Corrosion protection
Proper freeze protection
Lubrication for the water pump
Long-term reliability

Avoid mixing coolant types.

Buy Now:
BMW Blue Coolant

Cooling System Refresh Checklist

Don't Forget These Small Parts

Whenever you're refreshing the cooling system, it's smart to replace the smaller items while everything is apart:

Hose clamps
O-rings
Temperature sensors
Bleeder screw
Coolant level sensor
Heater hoses (if original)
Drive belts
Belt tensioners and pulleys (if worn)

Replacing these now can save you from having to tear the system apart again later.

Bleeding the E36 Cooling System

One of the biggest reasons an E36 overheats after repairs isn't a bad part it's trapped air.

After replacing cooling components:

Fill with the correct BMW coolant mixture.
Open the bleed screw.
Set the heater to maximum temperature.
Slowly fill until coolant flows from the bleed screw without bubbles.
Start the engine and continue bleeding as needed.
Verify stable operating temperature and proper heater output.
Recheck the coolant level after the engine has fully cooled.

Taking your time during the bleeding process is just as important as installing quality parts.

Build a Cooling System You Can Trust

A healthy cooling system is one of the best investments you can make in your E36. Replacing aging plastic components with durable upgrades not only improves reliability but also gives you peace of mind whether you're commuting, carving back roads, or chasing lap times.

At Race German, we stock a wide selection of BMW E36 cooling system components from OEM replacement parts to performance upgrades like aluminum radiators, Stewart high-performance water pumps, silicone hoses, thermostat housings, expansion tanks, thermostats, fan conversion parts, and the hardware needed to complete the job right.

Refresh it once, do it right, and spend more time enjoying your BMW instead of watching the temperature gauge.

Genuine BMW vs. OE vs. OEM vs. Aftermarket BMW Parts: What's the Difference?

Justin Schaub — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 10:24:00 -0400

Genuine BMW vs. OE vs. OEM vs. Aftermarket BMW Parts: What's the Difference?

We now offer OEM, OE, and Genuine BMW Parts: CLICK TO SHOP

If you've ever searched for replacement parts for your BMW, you've probably come across terms like Genuine BMW, OE, OEM, and Aftermarket. While these terms are often used interchangeably, they actually mean very different things and understanding those differences can save you money while ensuring you get the right part for your build.

At Race German, we offer all four categories because every BMW owner has different goals. Whether you're restoring a showroom-original E30, daily driving your E46, or building a dedicated track car, here's what you need to know.

Genuine BMW Parts

Genuine BMW parts are exactly what came on your car from the factory.

These parts are manufactured for BMW and sold in official BMW packaging with a BMW part number. In many cases, BMW doesn't actually manufacture the component themselves. Instead, they contract companies like Bosch, Lemförder, Mahle, Sachs, ATE, NGK, Continental, and many others to build the parts to BMW's specifications.

The only difference? The part arrives in a BMW box.

Pros

Guaranteed factory fit and finish
Original BMW packaging
Exact replacement
Maintains factory originality

Cons

Usually the highest price
Often identical to OE parts that cost significantly less

Best for:

Restoration projects
Collectors
Owners wanting 100% factory originality

OE (Original Equipment) Parts

This is often the best value for BMW owners.

An OE part is made by the exact same manufacturer that supplied BMW during production but it's sold under the manufacturer's own brand instead of BMW's. Often you will see the BMW logo scratched out.

For example:

Bosch fuel injectors
Lemförder control arms
Mahle filters
Sachs shocks
ATE brake components

These parts are frequently identical down to the casting marks and manufacturing process. The only thing missing is the BMW logo on the box and sometimes even on the part itself.

Example

Imagine BMW purchased water pumps from Graf. A Genuine BMW water pump might cost $140. The identical Graf OE water pump may cost $95. Same factory. Same quality. Different box.

Pros

Factory quality
Lower price
Excellent reliability
Often literally the same component

Cons

Packaging differs from Genuine BMW

Best for:

Nearly every BMW owner looking for OEM quality repairs without paying dealership prices.

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) Parts

This is where confusion starts. OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer, meaning the company manufactures parts for BMW. However, not every part they sell is the same as the original BMW part.

For example:

Bosch manufactures hundreds of different ignition coils. Some are the exact coils BMW installed from the factory. Others are aftermarket replacements designed by Bosch that were never factory installed. Both are technically Bosch. Only one may be OE.

Think of it this way:

OE = Original factory design
OEM = Made by a company that supplies BMW

Not every OEM part is OE.

Pros

Usually excellent quality
Trusted manufacturers
Good warranty support
Often more affordable

Cons

May not always be identical to factory-installed components
Quality varies depending on the specific product line

Aftermarket Parts

Aftermarket parts are produced by companies other than BMW's original suppliers. This category is incredibly broad. Some aftermarket manufacturers produce parts that outperform anything BMW ever offered. Others manufacture inexpensive replacement parts designed primarily around price.

Examples include:

Performance suspension
Polyurethane bushings
Aluminum cooling upgrades
Coilovers
Big brake kits
Short shifters
Silicone intake hoses
Carbon fiber body components

Aftermarket parts are where enthusiasts usually spend their money because they allow you to improve performance, reliability, appearance, or all three.

Pros

Largest selection
Performance improvements
Unique styling options
Often better than OEM for modified vehicles

Cons

Quality varies dramatically
Cheap brands can have poor fitment or shorter lifespan

Not All Aftermarket Parts Are Equal

This is one of the biggest misconceptions in the BMW community. People often hear "aftermarket" and assume low quality. That couldn't be further from the truth. Brands like Bilstein, KW, Ohlins, Eventuri, CSF, Mishimoto, H&R, Brembo, and many others have built reputations by engineering products that outperform factory components. At the same time, there are countless low-cost manufacturers producing parts with inconsistent quality control.

Choosing reputable brands makes all the difference.

Which One Should You Buy?

Your Goal	Best Choice
Factory restoration	Genuine BMW
Daily driver maintenance	OE
Budget-conscious repair	OE or quality OEM
Performance upgrades	Aftermarket
Track or race car	Performance aftermarket
Long-term reliability	Genuine BMW or OE

The Race German Philosophy

There isn't a "one-size-fits-all" answer. Sometimes the Genuine BMW part is absolutely worth the premium. Other times, the OE version is literally the exact same component for considerably less money. And in many situations, a well-engineered aftermarket upgrade will outperform both.

That's why Race German carefully selects products from trusted manufacturers instead of simply stocking the cheapest option available. Whether you're looking for Genuine BMW, OE, OEM, or aftermarket performance parts, our goal is to help you choose the option that best fits your budget, your build, and how you actually drive your BMW.

If we wouldn't install it on our own cars, we won't recommend it for yours.

Final Thoughts

Understanding the difference between Genuine BMW, OE, OEM, and aftermarket parts makes shopping for your BMW much easier.

Remember these simple definitions:

Genuine BMW: Factory part in a BMW box.
OE: The exact same factory part sold by the original manufacturer.
OEM: Made by a company that supplies BMW, but not necessarily identical to the factory-installed part.
Aftermarket: Parts made outside BMW's original supply chain, ranging from economical replacements to high-performance upgrades.

Knowing which category you're buying helps you make informed decisions and get the best value for your money, whether you're maintaining a daily driver, restoring a classic, or building your dream BMW.

We now offer OEM, OE, and Genuine BMW Parts: CLICK TO SHOP

BMW E46 100,000 Mile Service Guide

Justin Schaub — Thu, 16 Jul 2026 08:30:00 -0400

BMW E46 100,000 Mile Service Guide

The Complete Race German Inspection & Maintenance Checklist

If you're buying a BMW E46 with over 100,000 miles or your own E46 has just crossed the six-digit mark, this is one of the most important maintenance milestones in the car's life.

While BMW's original service schedule focuses on oil changes and inspections, real-world experience has shown that many age-related components begin to fail between 80,000 and 120,000 miles. Rubber hardens, cooling systems become brittle, seals leak, suspension bushings wear out, and neglected fluids lose their protective properties.

The good news? The E46 is one of BMW's most reliable chassis when properly maintained. Completing a thorough 100,000-mile service can dramatically improve reliability and often prevent expensive roadside failures.

Below is the Race German recommended inspection and service guide, combining BMW factory maintenance recommendations with decades of enthusiast and technician experience.

Must Do Maintenance

These items should be considered mandatory if they have not been replaced recently.

1. Complete Cooling System Overhaul

The E46 cooling system is the single most common failure point.

Many factory plastic components become brittle after 15-20 years regardless of mileage. Waiting until something fails often results in overheating, which can lead to a warped aluminum cylinder head.

Inspect or replace:

Radiator
Expansion tank
Expansion tank cap
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
Heater hoses
Coolant temperature sensor O-ring
Water pump
Thermostat
Thermostat housing
Fan clutch (manual transmission)
Mechanical fan blades
Electric auxiliary fan operation
Cooling fan switch (where applicable)

2. Engine Oil & Filter

BMW recommends regular oil service, but if service history is unknown, change it immediately.

Inspect for leaks around:

Valve cover gasket
Oil filter housing gasket
Oil pan gasket
VANOS oil line
Power steering hoses

Replace:

Engine oil
Oil filter
Drain plug crush washer

3. Spark Plugs

BMW specifies replacement roughly every 100,000 miles for long-life platinum plugs.

Worn plugs reduce:

Fuel economy
Power
Idle quality
Cold starting

Inspect ignition coils while removed.

4. Air Filter

A clogged air filter reduces airflow and fuel economy.

Replace the engine air filter.

5. Cabin Air Filter

Often forgotten.

A dirty cabin filter causes:

Weak HVAC airflow
Musty odors
Increased blower motor load

6. Fuel Filter

BMW originally considered many fuel filters "lifetime."

Real-world experience says otherwise.

A restricted fuel filter can cause:

Lean conditions
Hard starts
Fuel pump strain

7. Brake Fluid Flush

BMW recommends replacing brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture, reducing braking performance and corroding expensive ABS components.

8. Coolant Flush

If the cooling system has been serviced, refill only with BMW-approved coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

Never mix universal green coolant.

9. Transmission Fluid

BMW advertised "Lifetime Fluid."

Most enthusiasts know there is no such thing. Drain and fill to spill with recommended transmission fluid.

Automatic

Replace:

ATF
Filter
Pan gasket

Manual

Replace transmission oil only.

10. Differential Fluid

Replace differential gear oil with the fill to spill method.

Fresh gear oil protects:

Ring gear
Pinion
Bearings
Limited-slip units (if equipped)

11. Power Steering Fluid

Many E46s still contain their original power steering fluid.

Flush the system.

Inspect:

Reservoir filter
Hoses
Return line
Pump leaks

12. Drive Belts

Inspect for:

Cracks
Glazing
Fraying

Replace:

Main serpentine belt
A/C belt

13. Belt Tensioners & Idler Pulleys

A noisy pulley can destroy a belt without warning.

Replace worn:

Idler pulleys
Hydraulic tensioners
Mechanical tensioners

14. Inspect VANOS System

The M52TU and M54 engines commonly develop worn VANOS seals.

Symptoms:

Power loss
Poor low-end torque
Rough idle
Fault codes

Inspect:

VANOS oil line
Solenoids
Oil leaks

15. Battery & Charging System

Test:

Battery voltage
Alternator output
Charging voltage
Ground straps

Highly Recommended Maintenance

These items may not require replacement immediately but should be inspected closely.

Suspension

The E46 suspension is often worn by 100k.

Inspect:

Front control arms
Control arm bushings
Ball joints
Tie rods
Sway bar links
Rear trailing arm bushings
Rear shock mounts
Front strut mounts
Shock absorbers
Springs

Brakes

Inspect:

Rotors
Pads
Brake hoses
Calipers
Guide pins
Parking brake shoes

Engine Mounts

Collapsed mounts increase drivetrain movement and can even make the engine move enough during hard breaking to puncture the radaitor.

Inspect:

Engine mounts
Transmission mounts

We recommend to change the engine and transmission mounts at the same time.

Guibo (Flex Disc)

Inspect for:

Cracks
Missing rubber
Loose hardware

Replace if any cracking exists.

Center Support Bearing

Listen for:

Vibration
Driveline shudder
Noise during acceleration

We recommend to replace the guibo and center support bearing at the same time.

CV Axles

Inspect:

Torn boots
Grease leakage
Clicking noises

Wheel Bearings

Check for:

Play
Humming
Roughness

Vacuum Leaks

Inspect:

Intake boots
CCV hoses
Vacuum lines
Brake booster hose

Vacuum leaks are one of the most common causes of lean codes on M54 engines and can cause a rough running engine, where you may think there is a misfire from the spark plugs or coil packs, but it is actually a vacuum leak.

CCV (Crankcase Ventilation System)

Inspect for:

Oil consumption
Whistling
Vacuum at oil cap
Cracked hoses

Replace if original. This is a common failure point and can cause many check engine codes and a rough running engine.

DISA Valve (M54)

Inspect:

Flap movement
Broken pin
Vacuum actuator

A failed DISA can reduce torque and, in severe cases, allow broken pieces into the engine. This can be catastrophic and we recommend replacing the unit or purchasing our upgraded billet repair kit.

Oxygen Sensors

BMW generally recommends replacement around 100,000 miles.

Old sensors can reduce:

Fuel economy
Engine response

Fuel Injectors

By 100,000 miles, injectors commonly suffer from varnish buildup and uneven flow.

Professional cleaning and flow testing restores:

Spray pattern
Fuel delivery balance
Idle quality
Fuel economy

Race German offers the following service & products:

Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Service: CLICK HERE
Injector Rebuild Kits: CLICK HERE

Inspect Rubber Components

Age affects rubber more than mileage.

Inspect:

Coolant hoses
Vacuum hoses
Fuel hoses
Weather stripping
Intake boots
Suspension bushings

Electrical System Check

Inspect operation of:

Window regulators
Sunroof
Door locks
HVAC controls
Exterior lights
Interior lighting
Windshield washer pump
ABS/DSC warning lights

Rust Inspection

Check:

Rear subframe mounting points
Jack pads
Rocker panels
Rear wheel arches
Brake lines
Fuel lines
Trunk floor
Battery box tray

Final Inspection Checklist

Before considering your E46 fully sorted, verify:

✓ No oil leaks
✓ No coolant leaks
✓ Cooling fan operates correctly
✓ Charging voltage is within specification
✓ No suspension clunks
✓ Steering is tight
✓ Brakes are smooth with no vibration
✓ No stored fault codes
✓ Tires have even wear
✓ All exterior lights function properly
✓ HVAC system heats and cools correctly

Conclusion

Reaching 100,000 miles isn't the end of an E46's life, it's often just the beginning. With proper maintenance, these cars routinely exceed 250,000 to 300,000 miles while remaining reliable, enjoyable daily drivers. Taking care of the common wear items now helps prevent costly breakdowns later and keeps your BMW performing the way it was designed to.

Whether you're refreshing a newly purchased E46 or maintaining one you've owned for years, staying ahead of age-related maintenance is the best investment you can make. At Race German, we carry everything from OEM replacement parts to performance upgrades and complete cooling system solutions to help keep your E46 on the road for the next 100,000 miles.

Ultimate BMW F87 M2 Guide

Justin Schaub — Tue, 21 Jul 2026 08:30:00 -0400

BMW F87 M2 Colors and Production Numbers: The Most Popular, Rarest and Best Colors

The first-generation BMW M2 has quickly become one of the most desirable modern BMW M cars. Known internally as the F87, the original M2 combined compact dimensions, rear-wheel drive, a turbocharged inline-six and the availability of a six-speed manual transmission.

BMW introduced the F87 M2 for the 2016 model year with a modified N55 engine. An updated LCI version followed for 2018, before the substantially revised M2 Competition arrived for 2019 with the BMW M-developed S55 engine. The limited-production M2 CS represented the final and most specialized version of the F87.

Although the different F87 versions share the same basic body shell, their personalities, mechanical specifications and color choices are surprisingly different.

This guide explains:

Every regular-production F87 M2 color
Which colors were offered during each model year
The most popular and rarest F87 colors
Worldwide and United States production figures
Manual versus DCT production
The differences between the N55 M2 and S55 M2 Competition
Which F87 version and color may be most collectible

A Note About F87 Production Numbers

BMW did not release one complete public production report breaking every F87 down by model year, country, color and transmission.

The figures in this guide come from a combination of BMW press information, production records decoded by BMW registry researchers and enthusiast VIN databases. Worldwide model totals are now fairly well documented, but some United States color-and-transmission combinations remain registry-derived rather than officially published by BMW.

For that reason, production figures should be treated as the best currently documented numbers, not as a factory-issued certificate for an individual car.

BMW F87 M2 Production Timeline

Version	Primary U.S. model years	Engine	Output
Original M2	2016–2017	N55B30T0	365 hp
M2 LCI	2018	N55B30T0	365 hp
M2 Competition	2019–2021	S55B30T0	405 hp
M2 CS	2020–2021, depending on market	S55B30T0	444 hp

Production dates and model years do not always align perfectly. BMW may begin manufacturing a new model year during the preceding calendar year, and preproduction cars can appear earlier than the official retail launch.

The M2 Competition, for example, was announced in April 2018 as a 2019 model for the United States. BMW confirmed that it replaced the N55 with the S55 engine and retained a choice of six-speed manual or seven-speed dual-clutch transmissions.

Original BMW F87 M2 Colors

The original N55-powered M2 had one of the smallest color palettes of any modern M car. Buyers received only four regular-production exterior choices.

Color	BMW paint code	Type
Alpine White III	300	Non-metallic
Black Sapphire Metallic	475	Metallic
Mineral Grey Metallic	B39	Metallic
Long Beach Blue Metallic	C16	Metallic

Long Beach Blue Metallic

Long Beach Blue was the signature launch color of the original M2 and remains the color most closely associated with the early F87.

It is much more complex than a conventional blue. Under overcast skies, it can appear like a darker turquoise or teal. In direct sunlight, the blue becomes brighter and the green tones become much more noticeable.

Long Beach Blue was also used on other BMW M products, but its association with the F87 M2 remains especially strong. It highlighted the M2’s widened fenders and helped distinguish the car from a standard 2 Series.

Why buyers chose it

Signature F87 launch color
Makes the widened bodywork easier to see
Changes dramatically in different lighting
Immediately recognizable as an M2

Drawbacks

Not a subtle color
Can appear greener than expected
Matching repainted panels can be difficult

Alpine White III

Alpine White is a solid, non-metallic white that has appeared on generations of BMW performance cars.

On the F87, it creates a strong contrast with the black window trim, kidney grilles and lower bumper openings. White also makes it easier to add carbon-fiber or black exterior components without making the car look overly busy.

Why buyers chose it

Traditional BMW M appearance
Easy to pair with different wheel colors
Accentuates black and carbon-fiber trim
Generally easier to maintain than black

Drawbacks

Less distinctive than Long Beach Blue
Road grime is highly visible
White cars were relatively common in many markets

Mineral Grey Metallic

Mineral Grey gave the original M2 a more understated appearance. Depending on the light, it can range from a medium metallic grey to a much darker charcoal.

The color disguises some of the M2’s more aggressive styling, but it also provides excellent contrast against the factory silver wheels and blue brake calipers.

Why buyers chose it

Subtle and mature appearance
Hides light dirt better than black or white
Works with silver, black, bronze or gold wheels
Shows the body lines without being overly bright

Drawbacks

Can blend in with standard BMW models
Less recognizable as an M2 launch color
Replaced when the M2 Competition arrived

Black Sapphire Metallic

Black Sapphire gives the F87 a particularly aggressive appearance. It visually reduces the size of the kidney grilles, vents and trim pieces by blending them into the body.

It is also the most difficult regular F87 color to keep clean. Dust, water spots, swirl marks and paint imperfections are especially noticeable on a black car.

Why buyers chose it

Aggressive, understated appearance
Hides black plastic trim
Works well with almost any wheel finish
Gives the M2 a compact and purposeful look

Drawbacks

Shows swirl marks and dust
Hides some of the F87’s widened body lines
Requires careful paint maintenance

BMW M2 Competition Colors

The M2 Competition continued with Alpine White, Black Sapphire and Long Beach Blue. However, Mineral Grey was discontinued and replaced by Hockenheim Silver. Sunset Orange was added as a fifth choice.

BMW specifically described Hockenheim Silver and Sunset Orange as the two new optional colors for the M2 Competition, with Hockenheim Silver replacing Mineral Grey.

Color	BMW paint code	M2 Competition availability
Alpine White III	300	2019–2021
Black Sapphire Metallic	475	2019–2021
Long Beach Blue Metallic	C16	2019–2021
Hockenheim Silver Metallic	C33	2019–2021
Sunset Orange Metallic	C1X	2019–2021

Hockenheim Silver Metallic

Hockenheim Silver became the signature color of the M2 Competition.

Despite its name, it does not look like a conventional bright silver. It often appears light grey, but it can display blue, beige or warm metallic undertones depending on the surrounding light.

The color was initially promoted as exclusive to the M2 Competition and is one of the easiest ways to identify a Competition model from a distance.

Why buyers chose it

Signature M2 Competition color
Unique appearance in different lighting
Contrasts well with black Competition trim
Hides dust and minor imperfections reasonably well

Drawbacks

Can look flat in photographs
Sometimes appears beige under warm artificial lighting
Became one of the more commonly ordered Competition colors

Sunset Orange Metallic

Sunset Orange was the boldest standard color offered on the M2 Competition.

It appears bright orange in direct sunlight but can take on a deeper copper or red-orange appearance in lower light. It is particularly effective at highlighting the M2’s rear quarter panels and flared fenders.

Why buyers chose it

One of the boldest F87 colors
Less frequently seen than Hockenheim Silver or Long Beach Blue
Strong contrast with black wheels and trim
Excellent choice for a visually distinctive car

Drawbacks

More polarizing than white, black or grey
May appeal to a smaller group of used-car buyers
Paint matching can be challenging

Which Colors Were Available Each Year?

United States color availability

Model year	Version	Colors
2016	Original M2	Alpine White, Black Sapphire, Mineral Grey, Long Beach Blue
2017	Original M2	Alpine White, Black Sapphire, Mineral Grey, Long Beach Blue
2018	M2 LCI	Alpine White, Black Sapphire, Mineral Grey, Long Beach Blue
2019	M2 Competition	Alpine White, Black Sapphire, Long Beach Blue, Hockenheim Silver, Sunset Orange
2020	M2 Competition	Alpine White, Black Sapphire, Long Beach Blue, Hockenheim Silver, Sunset Orange
2021	M2 Competition	Alpine White, Black Sapphire, Long Beach Blue, Hockenheim Silver, Sunset Orange

Individual-painted and special-edition cars occasionally fall outside this table, but these were the normal catalog colors for regular U.S.-market production.

What Is the Most Popular F87 M2 Color?

Most popular original M2 color: Long Beach Blue

Production registry data consistently identifies Long Beach Blue as the dominant color for the N55-powered M2.

That is not surprising. BMW used Long Beach Blue heavily in launch photography, advertisements and press vehicles. Many buyers wanted the new M2 to look immediately recognizable, and the launch color was the clearest way to accomplish that.

Alpine White was generally the next most common original-M2 color, followed by Mineral Grey. Black Sapphire tended to represent the smallest portion of the four-color original-M2 palette in worldwide registry data.

Approximate original-M2 popularity order

Long Beach Blue
Alpine White
Mineral Grey
Black Sapphire

The exact percentages vary by country. North American ordering patterns are not necessarily identical to those in Europe, the United Kingdom, Australia or Asia.

Most popular M2 Competition color: Hockenheim Silver

Hockenheim Silver appears to have been the most popular color for the M2 Competition worldwide.

Like Long Beach Blue on the original car, Hockenheim Silver received extensive use in BMW’s marketing materials and helped identify the revised Competition model. Long Beach Blue remained popular, while Black Sapphire and Alpine White continued to attract buyers looking for a more traditional appearance.

Sunset Orange appears less frequently than the neutral colors in most production datasets.

Approximate M2 Competition popularity order

Hockenheim Silver
Long Beach Blue
Black Sapphire or Alpine White, depending on market
Sunset Orange
Individual colors

An Individual-painted M2 Competition is much rarer than any regular catalog color. Registry research has identified only a handful of factory Individual cars, including a U.S.-specification San Marino Blue example.

What Is the Rarest Regular F87 M2 Color?

The answer depends on which version of the F87 is being discussed.

Rarest original M2 color

Black Sapphire appears to be the least common regular color for the worldwide N55 M2 population.

That does not mean every Black Sapphire configuration is automatically rarer than every other combination. A specific color paired with a manual transmission, particular market specification, sunroof configuration or model year can result in a much smaller subset.

Rarest M2 Competition color

Sunset Orange appears to be one of the least common regular catalog colors worldwide, although the exact order can vary by country and transmission.

Any verified factory Individual M2 Competition is considerably rarer than Sunset Orange. These cars were exceptions rather than normally advertised ordering choices.

Rarest color by model association

Original M2 only: Mineral Grey was discontinued when the Competition arrived.
M2 Competition only: Hockenheim Silver and Sunset Orange were not regular colors on the N55 M2.
M2 CS only: Misano Blue was the signature CS color and was not a regular M2 Competition catalog color.

This makes Mineral Grey particularly interesting. It may not be the lowest-volume N55 color, but it is permanently associated with the original M2 because it did not continue onto the Competition.

Worldwide F87 M2 Production Numbers

Recent registry research places worldwide F87 production at approximately 62,000 cars when the original M2, M2 Competition and M2 CS are combined.

Best documented worldwide totals

F87 version	Worldwide production
Original N55 M2, including pre-LCI and LCI	Approximately 29,700
M2 Competition	30,005
M2 CS	2,381
Combined road-car production	Approximately 62,100

The finalized registry count for the M2 Competition is 30,005 cars produced through June 2021.

The final M2 CS registry count is 2,381 cars. Of those, 940 had a manual transmission and 1,441 had the DCT.

These figures exclude dedicated race cars when the race-car production series is counted separately.

Why some older totals are different

Earlier articles frequently stated that BMW would build approximately 2,200 M2 CS models. That was BMW’s initial announced target, not the final decoded production count. The completed VIN data now indicates that 2,381 road-going M2 CS examples were produced.

The same issue affects early estimates for the original M2. Initial reports suggested a much lower production run, but strong demand led to considerably more cars being manufactured.

F87 M2 Production in the United States

United States totals are more difficult to present because some available datasets combine the U.S. and Canada as North America, while others separate cars by destination-market type code rather than final retail registration.

Approximately 11,700 F87 M2 road cars were produced for the United States across the original M2, M2 Competition and M2 CS. Depending on which preproduction and destination-coded cars are included, published totals can differ slightly.

Approximate U.S. production by version

F87 version	Approximate U.S. production
Original N55 M2	Approximately 6,900–7,000
M2 Competition	Approximately 4,400–5,300
M2 CS	Approximately 560–570
Total	Approximately 11,700–12,000

These should not be added blindly because some older Competition estimates were calculated by subtracting combined North American totals and may include Canadian cars.

One commonly cited forum estimate places the original North American N55 population at approximately 7,000 and the Competition population at approximately 4,500, before separating U.S. cars from Canadian cars.

For an individual car, the most reliable rarity calculation requires its complete specification:

Destination market
Model year
Exterior color
Transmission
Interior specification
Sunroof or slicktop
Option package
Production date

A statement such as “one of 300” may refer to North America rather than the United States, or it may include both preproduction and customer cars. Always verify what the number actually represents.

How Many F87 M2s Were Manual?

Every road-going version of the F87 was available with a six-speed manual transmission.

The alternative was BMW’s seven-speed M Dual-Clutch Transmission, commonly called the M-DCT or simply DCT.

Transmission choices

Version	Manual	Automatic
Original M2	6-speed manual	7-speed DCT
M2 Competition	6-speed manual	7-speed DCT
M2 CS	6-speed manual	7-speed DCT

Worldwide manual-versus-DCT trends

DCT was the more popular transmission worldwide. The difference was particularly significant in markets where automatic performance cars have a higher take rate or where the manual M2 was difficult to order.

North America took a much larger percentage of manual cars than many international regions.

A precise final manual-versus-DCT count for every original M2 and M2 Competition market has not been released by BMW in one public table. Registry charts indicate the following general pattern:

Version	Approximate worldwide trend
Original N55 M2	DCT majority
M2 Competition	DCT majority
M2 CS	940 manual / 1,441 DCT
U.S.-market F87	Manual share substantially higher than worldwide average

For the M2 CS, the finalized split means approximately 39.5 percent were manual and 60.5 percent were DCT.

Is a manual F87 automatically rare?

Not necessarily.

A manual F87 is less common worldwide, but manual take rates were strong in the United States. Some U.S. manual color combinations are still relatively common compared with DCT cars in countries where few manuals were ordered.

However, manual cars are likely to remain especially desirable among collectors because the F87 was the final M2 generation available with BMW’s seven-speed DCT. The later G87 uses an eight-speed torque-converter automatic instead.

Original N55 M2 vs. M2 Competition

The difference between the original M2 and M2 Competition is much greater than a badge, bumper or software tune.

The original M2 uses a heavily revised version of BMW’s N55 engine. The Competition uses the S55 engine developed by BMW M for the F80 M3 and F82 M4.

Engine comparison

Specification	Original M2	M2 Competition
Engine	N55B30T0	S55B30T0
Configuration	3.0-liter inline-six	3.0-liter inline-six
Turbo system	Single twin-scroll turbocharger	Two mono-scroll turbochargers
U.S. output	365 hp	405 hp
U.S. torque	343 lb-ft, 369 lb-ft overboost	406 lb-ft
Redline	Approximately 7,000 rpm	Approximately 7,500 rpm
Manual transmission	6-speed	6-speed
Automatic	7-speed DCT	7-speed DCT

BMW rated the U.S.-market M2 Competition at 405 horsepower and 406 pound-feet of torque.

The N55-powered original M2

The original M2’s N55 is not identical to the engine in a standard 335i or M235i. BMW upgraded it for sustained performance use and incorporated components and concepts from contemporary M engines.

The result is an engine known for immediate response, a broad torque curve and a distinctive exhaust note.

N55 M2 personality

The N55 car generally feels:

More responsive at lower engine speeds
More playful and less serious
Better sounding in factory form
Slightly lighter at the front
More like an enhanced traditional BMW road car

The N55’s single twin-scroll turbocharger provides a relatively natural-feeling torque delivery. It does not have the same upper-rpm urgency or tuning potential as the S55, but many owners prefer its sound and everyday character.

The S55-powered M2 Competition

The S55 uses two turbochargers, a closed-deck crankcase design, a stronger cooling system and more substantial track-oriented hardware.

BMW added larger kidney grille openings and revised the front bumper to increase airflow. The Competition also received additional cooling equipment and a new exhaust system with black-chrome outlets.

S55 M2 Competition personality

The Competition generally feels:

Faster throughout the rev range
Stronger at higher engine speeds
More stable and serious
Better suited to repeated track use
More responsive to major power upgrades

The tradeoff is sound. The S55 has a sharper, more mechanical exhaust note than the N55 and is frequently considered less musical in standard form.

Major Mechanical Differences

Cooling system

The M2 Competition has a substantially more extensive cooling package.

Its S55 installation includes additional cooling capacity designed to manage the higher output and repeated track use. The revised grille openings and bumper are functional changes, not simply cosmetic updates.

Chassis reinforcement

BMW added a carbon-fiber-reinforced-plastic strut brace and additional front-end bracing to the Competition. This improves structural rigidity and gives the front axle a more precise response.

The original M2 still handles extremely well, but the Competition feels more tied down and deliberate.

Differential and chassis electronics

Both versions use an electronically controlled Active M Differential, but the Competition received revised programming and integration with its updated M Dynamic Mode and engine controls.

Brakes

The original M2 came with four-piston front and two-piston rear fixed calipers.

The M2 Competition retained a capable standard brake package in some markets and offered a larger M Sport brake system. The upgraded setup uses larger rotors and substantial six-piston front calipers, but it also adds unsprung weight.

Buyers should not assume that every Competition has the larger brakes. The exact factory brake package should be verified by option code and visual inspection.

Wheels

The original M2 is best known for its 19-inch Style 437M wheels.

The Competition introduced the more complex Style 788M design. These wheels help visually identify the model but can be more difficult to clean and are not universally preferred.

Exhaust system

The N55 M2 uses a simpler exhaust layout and is generally considered the better-sounding factory car.

The Competition’s S55 exhaust uses electronically controlled valves and black-chrome outlets. It produces a harder and more aggressive tone, but the twin-turbo S55 does not deliver the same deep inline-six sound as the N55.

Weight

The Competition gained weight from its S55 engine, cooling equipment, chassis bracing and additional hardware.

The exact difference depends on transmission and equipment, but the original M2 generally feels slightly lighter and more eager to change direction. The Competition counters with more power, greater rigidity and improved heat management.

Exterior Differences Between the N55 M2 and M2 Competition

The two cars appear similar at first glance, but several details make them easy to distinguish.

Front bumper and kidney grilles

The Competition has larger, more connected-looking kidney grilles and revised lower bumper openings. These changes provide additional airflow to the S55 cooling system.

The original M2 has more separated kidney grilles and a simpler front-bumper design.

Mirrors

Both the original M2 and M2 Competition use standard 2 Series-style mirrors rather than the aerodynamic M mirrors fitted to the M2 CS.

Badging

The Competition carries “M2 Competition” badging, although badges are easily replaced and should never be used as the only method of identification.

Exhaust outlets

The Competition’s factory exhaust tips are finished in black chrome. The original M2 generally uses brighter polished outlets.

Paint colors

Mineral Grey indicates an original N55 M2 when the paint is factory original.

Hockenheim Silver and Sunset Orange indicate an M2 Competition, again assuming factory-original paint.

Long Beach Blue, Alpine White and Black Sapphire were available on both versions.

Interior Differences

Original M2

The original car uses black Dakota leather with blue contrast stitching. It has a relatively simple interior that closely resembles a well-equipped 2 Series, with M-specific gauges, trim and controls.

M2 Competition

The Competition receives several subtle updates:

M2 Competition identification
Revised instrument displays
Illuminated M2 logos in the seat backrests
Blue or orange interior stitching, depending on specification
M1 and M2 steering-wheel shortcut buttons
Revised drive-mode controls

The M1 and M2 buttons are among the most useful changes. They allow drivers to save preferred combinations of engine response, steering, stability-control and DCT settings.

Pre-LCI vs. LCI N55 M2

Not every N55-powered M2 is identical.

The 2018 M2 received BMW’s Life Cycle Impulse update, commonly called the LCI. The engine and basic performance remained the same, but the car received several visual and interior updates.

Major LCI changes

Revised LED headlights
Updated LED taillights
Revised instrument cluster
Updated dashboard design
Newer iDrive equipment
Minor trim and interior changes

The 2016 and 2017 cars are generally called pre-LCI models. The 2018 N55 car is the LCI.

For some buyers, the LCI is the ideal original M2 because it combines the N55 engine with the later lighting, dashboard and infotainment. Others prefer the simpler gauges and appearance of the earliest cars.

Which F87 M2 Is Best?

There is no universally correct answer.

Choose the original N55 M2 if you want:

The more distinctive factory exhaust note
Slightly lower weight
Simpler mechanical character
Lower purchase price
The original version of the F87 formula
Mineral Grey as a color choice

Choose the M2 Competition if you want:

More factory power
Greater tuning potential
Stronger cooling for track use
Increased front-end rigidity
M1 and M2 steering-wheel controls
Hockenheim Silver or Sunset Orange
More substantial M-specific engineering

Choose the M2 CS if you want:

The most collectible factory F87
444 horsepower
Adaptive suspension
Carbon-fiber body components
Limited production
The most focused factory setup

The M2 CS is also dramatically more expensive and costly to replace parts on. For owners who intend to modify, track and regularly drive the car, a standard Competition may provide better value.

Which F87 Color Will Hold Its Value Best?

Condition, mileage, service history and originality will have a greater effect on long-term value than color alone.

However, certain colors have stronger collector appeal.

Long Beach Blue

Long Beach Blue will likely remain one of the safest choices because it is the color most closely linked to the original M2’s launch.

It is recognizable, unmistakably BMW and historically significant to the model.

Hockenheim Silver

Hockenheim Silver has a similar relationship with the M2 Competition. It was introduced as the Competition’s signature color and is unique to that chapter of the F87 story.

Its high production volume may prevent it from being considered rare, but popularity and rarity are not the same thing. Collectors often want the color that best represents a particular model.

Mineral Grey

Mineral Grey may become increasingly interesting because it was limited to the N55 era and did not carry over to the M2 Competition.

It is more understated than Long Beach Blue but provides a clear distinction between an original M2 and a Competition.

Sunset Orange

Sunset Orange is a strong choice for buyers prioritizing rarity and visual impact.

It appears to have been ordered less frequently than Hockenheim Silver and Long Beach Blue. Finding a low-mileage, manual Sunset Orange car with original paint may become increasingly difficult.

Black Sapphire

Black Sapphire may be statistically uncommon on some versions, but rarity does not always create the highest demand. Black hides the F87’s body lines and requires careful maintenance to remain presentable.

A well-preserved black car can be spectacular, but paint condition will be especially important.

Alpine White

Alpine White is a traditional BMW M color and is likely to remain broadly desirable. It may not command a major rarity premium on the standard M2, but it has timeless appeal and works particularly well with factory or aftermarket carbon-fiber components.

Best F87 Configurations for Collectors

Potentially desirable configurations include:

Original M2 in Long Beach Blue with a six-speed manual
Original M2 in Mineral Grey with a six-speed manual
2018 LCI N55 M2 with a manual transmission
M2 Competition in Sunset Orange with a manual transmission
M2 Competition in Hockenheim Silver with a manual transmission
Verified factory Individual M2 Competition
Any unmodified M2 CS with documented history
Low-mileage slicktop cars without a sunroof
Cars retaining their original wheels, exhaust and body panels

A rare specification will not compensate for accident damage, poor maintenance, heavy modification or questionable mileage. The best collector car is usually the cleanest and most thoroughly documented example, not simply the one with the lowest theoretical production number.

F87 M2 Buyer’s Checklist

Before purchasing any F87, verify the following.

Service history

Look for consistent oil changes and evidence that the car was maintained by a knowledgeable owner or shop. BMW’s factory service intervals may be longer than many enthusiasts prefer for hard-driven cars.

Modifications

Determine whether the engine has been tuned and whether the car has previously used ethanol mixtures, upgraded turbochargers, downpipes or aggressive boost settings.

Returning a car to stock does not erase its modification history.

Crank-hub concerns

The S55’s crank-hub arrangement is widely discussed, particularly on tuned cars. Failures are not guaranteed, but buyers should understand the potential risk and determine whether preventative work was completed correctly.

Charge pipe and intake system

The N55’s plastic charge pipe can crack with age or increased boost. Inspect the intake tract and verify whether replacement parts were installed properly.

Cooling system

Check for coolant leaks, damaged radiators and evidence of overheating. Track-driven cars should receive an especially careful cooling-system inspection.

Differential

Listen for abnormal differential noise and check for leaks. Confirm that the correct fluid has been used.

DCT service

BMW has referred to certain transmission fluids as long-life or lifetime fluids, but many owners choose to service the DCT as the vehicle ages. Check for leaks around the transmission pan and determine whether maintenance records are available.

Manual transmission

Inspect clutch engagement, flywheel noise and the condition of the shifter linkage. A modified clutch may indicate that the car previously operated at higher-than-stock power.

Brakes

Measure rotor and pad condition rather than relying on the dashboard estimate. Competition models with the optional large brakes can be expensive to service.

Tires and alignment

Uneven rear-tire wear may indicate an aggressive alignment, worn suspension components or frequent track use.

Accident repairs

Inspect the widened rear quarter panels carefully. Unlike bolt-on front fenders, damaged rear quarters require significant body repair.

Paintwork

Use a paint-depth gauge when possible. Metallic colors such as Long Beach Blue, Hockenheim Silver and Sunset Orange can be difficult to match perfectly.

Recommended Maintenance After Buying a Used F87

Unless complete records are available, consider establishing a new maintenance baseline.

Recommended baseline service may include:

Engine oil and filter
Brake-fluid flush
Engine air filter
Cabin air filter
Manual-transmission or DCT inspection and service
Differential-fluid service
Spark plugs
Coolant inspection
Accessory belt and tensioner inspection
Charge-pipe inspection
Brake inspection
Suspension and bushing inspection
Battery test
Full diagnostic scan

Cars used on track require shorter service intervals and more frequent inspections.

Final Thoughts

The F87 M2 succeeded because it delivered something many enthusiasts believed BMW was moving away from: a compact, rear-wheel-drive performance coupe with an inline-six engine and an available manual transmission.

The original N55 M2 is the lighter, simpler and better-sounding version. The S55-powered M2 Competition is faster, more capable and more heavily engineered for sustained performance. The M2 CS takes the same platform to its most focused and collectible conclusion.

Long Beach Blue remains the defining original-M2 color, while Hockenheim Silver is the color most closely associated with the Competition. Mineral Grey and Sunset Orange offer additional rarity because each belongs to only one side of the N55-versus-S55 divide.

Regardless of color, the best F87 is one that has been maintained properly, modified intelligently and driven by someone who understood what made the first-generation M2 special.

For maintenance parts, performance upgrades and carefully selected components for your BMW F87 M2, explore the Race German F87 catalog.